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Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John

Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bridget the Midget T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chick on the Side T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Heat Wave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ament & Dalke, 1965
Page Views: 2,558 total, 31/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Mar 16, 2011 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Although this climb is just the first couple pitches of Sooberb, it is worth listing separately. By skipping the ~10 feet of 5.10c on the last pitch, the moderate climber has another great option in this area. Pitches 1 and 3 are forgettable, but pitch 2 is great.

Go past The Unsaid area, past Long John Wall, and start where the trail meets the wall with several terraces, down and to the right of Side Wall bench. You could skip the first pitch by scrambling on top of the bench.

P1. Ascend a 10' finger crack to a large, right-facing corner. Easy slab climbing leads to a bulge just below the "Sick Flake" and a large tree. Belay at rap rings on a slung tree. 5.7.

P2. Surmount the Sick Flake by either chimneying inside (easiest, and the only way to get pro) or laybacking the edge (great moves). Once on top of the chimney, climb the steep, left-facing corner. The holds are mostly huge, but it's steep and can give you a pump. Belay at another set of bolted rap rings below a tree in the rotten band. 5.8.

P3. Move slightly left, just above the tree and climb moderate cracks over an overlap. Choose a path left across a nice face with large features and easy moves, but not much pro. Belay on a huge ledge in the next rotten band. The final pitch of Sooberb will be just above you - a 5.10c overhanging crack. 5.7.

Protection

Standard rack, up to #2 Camalot.

Descent

Easily walk 20' down the rotten band to the small trees. Rappel 80' from rings to the end of P2. With a 60m rope, you can rap from here all the way to the Side Wall bench (barely - careful!) and scramble to the base of the climb. Or you can do two rappels straight down the route right to your packs.

Photos

D. Snyder
Golden, CO
 
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
 
We linked all three pitches with a 70 in one looong pitch with about 10' of easy simul-climbing. Great fun! Oct 2, 2016
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
 
I wouldn't recommend linking P1 and P2. I found P1 a bit easy for 5.7 which makes it tempting to go ahead into P2, but it's really best to protect the move around the flake from the belay stance directly below. That way the belayer can clearly see the climber and there is less rope stretch. Most climbs with a distinct crux have a good belay just below the hardest move for just this reason. I do think turning the corner from the chimney to on top of the flake with the accompanying exposure was the hardest move on the climb. There was also a great cam placement at the top of the chimney that makes this move much safer. Overall a great climb with this move as the best part. Jun 18, 2016
R Sather
COLORADO
 
R Sather   COLORADO
 
I really enjoy linking pitches 1 and 2, but I do have to agree it is probably not best for a new/ beginner leader. I have linked pitches one and two twice now without placing anything near or by the sick flake (not sure why one would place anything in the sick flake), but once the flake is surmounted and one is under the dihedral if everything is slung correctly and the the rope drag is minimal, it makes for and amazing pitch of free climbing. I tried to get my GF to lead this thinking it would be a good pitch to link up, and it was a bit of a sandbag. The leader should be comfortable leading above sick flake, but the climbing is secure. Apr 6, 2015
Mathias
Loveland, CO
 
Mathias   Loveland, CO
 
This was my first trad lead of technical climbing. I combined P1 and P2. P2 was fun, challenging, and scary for a new leader. Not being able to get behind the flake due to wearing a backpack, I ran it out from the tree to the top of the flake by climbing the arête. Upon looking down from the top of the flake and seeing my last piece of protection; a sling around the tree, I realized that was pretty foolish. If I do it again, I'll let the second take the pack and get a piece or two in there.

I found the most challenging section to be the dihedral at the end of P2. Trying to find good stances, placements and the right gear was stressful enough that I had to temporarily back off and downclimb to the ledge below, before going back at it. The slight overhang at the top of the dihedral and the inclined section of fist crack with (IMO) few good foot or hand hold (for the grade) was tricky climbing by the time I got there, but it was an extremely rewarding climb. Nov 23, 2014
Very nice route, well worth doing.... Jun 2, 2014
mark felber
Wheat Ridge, CO
 
mark felber   Wheat Ridge, CO
 
I found a #3 Camalot good to have on this route, in spite of what the description says. I think I used a #4 as well. May 9, 2014