Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Cast of Thousands
Page Views: 6,432 total · 26/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Jun 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This climb begins just to the right of a rotten chimney area a hundred yards or so downhill from Positively Fourth Street. It is identified by a RF dihedral that leads to a roof with a thin crack through it. This route is a combination of the first pitch of Practice Climb 101 and the second pitch of Sidewall.

Scramble up the bottom 10 or 15 feet of the chimney and situate yourself on a ledge/bench below the dihedral. Climb the dihedral (11a) passing a tricky crux towards the top. The holds are well chalked, but I found they generally face the wrong way. I ended up using an obviously unofficial (unchalked) sequence, but still felt the overall effort was around 11a. There is a bomber large RP placement in the corner in the middle of the crux. At the top of the corner, clip a fixed nut (or place your own) and traverse right to the double bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch of Sidewall.

From this anchor, head up and right in to the obvious dihedral. Crank through the thin stemming (11a) well protected with small nuts, and head for the obvious hand jam. Continue more easily up the line to an anchor at a tree. Two single rope raps back to the ground.

Protection

SR through hands. RPs and nuts useful.

Photos