Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | Cast of Thousands |
Page Views: | 7,598 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | Mike Sofranko on Jun 1, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This climb begins just to the right of a rotten chimney area a hundred yards or so downhill from Positively Fourth Street. It is identified by a RF dihedral that leads to a roof with a thin crack through it. This route is a combination of the first pitch of Practice Climb 101 and the second pitch of Sidewall.
Scramble up the bottom 10 or 15 feet of the chimney and situate yourself on a ledge/bench below the dihedral. Climb the dihedral (11a) passing a tricky crux towards the top. The holds are well chalked, but I found they generally face the wrong way. I ended up using an obviously unofficial (unchalked) sequence, but still felt the overall effort was around 11a. There is a bomber large RP placement in the corner in the middle of the crux. At the top of the corner, clip a fixed nut (or place your own) and traverse right to the double bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch of Sidewall.
From this anchor, head up and right in to the obvious dihedral. Crank through the thin stemming (11a) well protected with small nuts, and head for the obvious hand jam. Continue more easily up the line to an anchor at a tree. Two single rope raps back to the ground.
Scramble up the bottom 10 or 15 feet of the chimney and situate yourself on a ledge/bench below the dihedral. Climb the dihedral (11a) passing a tricky crux towards the top. The holds are well chalked, but I found they generally face the wrong way. I ended up using an obviously unofficial (unchalked) sequence, but still felt the overall effort was around 11a. There is a bomber large RP placement in the corner in the middle of the crux. At the top of the corner, clip a fixed nut (or place your own) and traverse right to the double bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch of Sidewall.
From this anchor, head up and right in to the obvious dihedral. Crank through the thin stemming (11a) well protected with small nuts, and head for the obvious hand jam. Continue more easily up the line to an anchor at a tree. Two single rope raps back to the ground.
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