West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.932, -105.288 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
This section has some of the best rock along the ridge, but still it has significant loose sections, especially up and right from Pony Express/Mescaline.
Interestingly, this section of the ridge seems to have some seen of the earlier forays in 1965 by P. Ament on Rhombohedral, The Mail Ridge, & Sooberb.
Some of the entrees here include: the beefy Mesca-Line, 5.7; Ignominity, 5.9; the filling P1 of Pony Express, 5.9; the hearty Variation to Mail Ridge, 5.10; Sooberb, 5.10c; the robust Muscle and Hate, 5.11a; the classic Practice Climb 101 to Sidewall (i.e. Practice Wall, 5.11a s); the hungrier-sized Pony Express, 5.11c; the demanding Iron Horse, 5.11c s; the test-piece The Reckoning, 5.12d; among others. There are plenty of other, more-obscure moderate lines here if the popular classics are occupied, so a open mind is helpful on busy weekends here.
It can get quite warm in this section on hot days. Shade will be hard to find when the sun shines here. Don't forget sunscreen for the melanin-challenged!
Best to bring your rack here, for without it, there are slim pickings, maybe one? sport route Barrel of Monkeys, 5.11++.
It's probably wiser to figure out your descent options before heading up above the first pitches here. Most will involve rappelling.
Approach is best via stream crossing at the Milton Boulder or the standard approach from the east end of the park, hiking along the trail parallel to the creek below Redgarden Wall, over the slick, 3rd-class ramp, and then up the west side of the West Ridge.
This section tends to be some of the more popular along the West Ridge.
Classic Climbing Routes at West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Days w Precip