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Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John

Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bridget the Midget T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chick on the Side T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Heat Wave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Mark and Scott Tarrant, 1994
Page Views: 1,537 total, 8/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 2, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

"Barrel of Monkeys" starts on the same shelf as "The Side Wall", but on the far right side as for "Sooberb".

Climb up and right to a pine tree at the base of the "Sick Flake". Climb behind the tree and on the outside of the flake to reach the first bolt. A long sling is helpful on this bolt. The route is obvious from here, blasting up the steep wall above past the remaining 6 bolts. There are 2 cruxes, one at the 2nd bolt (.11c/d), and one at the 6th bolt (.11c). The first crux involves some tricky footwork and a longish reach to the right. A fun, well-protected section (.10c) with decent rests leads to the higher crux which is strenuous and deceptive. From here, the route moves slightly left to a blunt arete and then up and right to the anchor. This is one of the few pure sport routes in Eldo and is a nice departure from some of the scarier routes in "The Side Wall" area.

The rock is excellent and the moves are very fun. It gets no stars in the new Eldo guide, but is well deserving of 2+ stars. The only complaint is that the anchor is over the top of the steep climbing, so there is quite a bit of rope-drag when lowering and following on toprope. Also, be careful when lowering since the leader will end up about 25 feet to the right and about 80 feet above the ground (swing or climb back to the ledge).

Protection

7 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. A long sling is handy, and a 60 meter rope works best to make it back to the ledge.

Photos

Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO
 
Ryan Kempf   Boulder, CO
 
Cleaned this line up yesterday and have a few suggestions. Take a 70m rope, head down and right 20ft from the Sidewall ledge on the ramp, and belay below the dead tree (obvious cleared area). If you take gear for the bottom section (.8), extend everything you place. I would also suggest extending bolts 1,3 & 5. This makes a beautiful 35m pitch! Watch your ends lowering/rappelling.

I am 5'10" and dead even on my ape index. The 1st crux requires good footwork and body tension, I can do it completely static with my height & reach. The 2nd crux is more powerful, thin and crisp; it's a damn good boulder problem. Mar 26, 2014
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.11+
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.11+
I think this is a GREAT line, the Tarrants did it again. It kind of reminded me of Spicoli, a bit harder and more sustained, almost as good as Hands in the Clouds. Should be more popular as it's really good and right on 5.11+-ish. Although I have a decent reach, I did not think this line is particularly height or reach dependent. The section past the second bolt is much more "footwork" dependent, there are in fact plenty of very small balancy holds for the hands as you move R. and up to the clipping jug.

If you belay below and to the L somewhere down R. along the PC 101 alcove ledge, I recommend climbing "over" the tree and sick flake with the rope passing to the R of the tree, with minimal gear proteting this straight forward climbing, this will reduce the rope drag that will occur if you climb around the tree on its left and/or placing gear in the sick flake crack as for Sooberb.

Highly recommended! Mar 30, 2011
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Since this is Eldo and not Castlewood Canyon, I'd knock off a star for the use of the sick flake, which eats up half the climbing. The rest of the climbing is excellent. Oct 23, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
This line certainly has a reach dependent grade in the lower crux. I have a ridiculous positive ape index (eight inches) and still found it a stretch to reach from the small fin on the left to the finger slot on the right at the second bolt. For someone with shorter arms this move should be nearly impossible. There is a potential solution using micro-gastons under the overlap, but using them would push the grade up by at least a couple of letter grades. The stone above was excellent with no evidence of anything ready to break off. With fully one half of the route climbing to, around, and up the Sick Flake, I'd knock off one star in the three star system. Overall grade, if you can make the reach at the first crux, seemed close to 11d. Oct 21, 2002
I've done it twice in the last year, and it still seems like hard 5.11 to me. Seems comparable to other 5.11+'s in Eldo such as Silver Raven, the Contest or Private Idaho; but not as hard as 5.12a's such as Fire and Ice or Wendego. It's hard to pinpoint an accurate rating for any route, allowing for body size, reach and climbing strengths--it's always subjective. Mar 11, 2002
Have you been up there recently, AC? I snapped off a hold up high a few years ago, and it certainly seemed harder than 11c/d after that... Mar 4, 2002