Type: Trad, TR Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Brooks & Harrison - 1981
Page Views: 3,080 total · 15/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


127 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is in the Pony Express area. When facing Mesca-Line, this is the dihedral immediately right of Mesca-Line.

The climb is pretty straighforward, aside from being rather dirty (now cleaner). For most of it, I made it harder by seeing how much I could climb out on the face to avoid sticking my hands in the dihedral.

We climbed it because "it was right there" but would probably have been better off moving to different section of rock and not wasting our time.

Protection

Well protected - medium gear. Belay from a tree or the bolts on the face to the left.

Photos

Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
The first two thirds of this climb are pretty good. Then it gets bad. The crack is full of dirt and moss after that. You have to move left to the tree or the bolts because if you don't the rope runs right across a slopping ledge with a plethora of brick sized rocks. Your partner and anyone else at the bottom is in danger. I would not do this climb again. Apr 22, 2002
James Garnett
Bellingham, WA
 
James Garnett   Bellingham, WA
 
Come'on, guys, it's not that bad. This is a perfectly enjoyable climb for people breaking into eldo 5.7: it's soft at the grade, has totally bomber protection at the crux, and it's not crowded. Jul 15, 2004
Tonya Clement
Boulder, CO
 
Tonya Clement   Boulder, CO
 
This climb is lots of fun for a 5.7 and much easier than its sidekick Mescaline. I agree with James, I good choice for one of your earlier 5.7 leads in Eldo....it is a confidence builder. You gotta be careful of the loose rocks on the higher ledges and if toproping, I suggest setting up a back up anchor to save stress on the tree....it is a small tree. Jul 17, 2004
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
 
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
 
I think this climb is worth a visit at the very least. It's a perfect 25 meters, and fun to run up as a warm-up for Mescaline. Don't be fooled though, this 5.7 is MUCH easier than its neighbor. "New-school" 5.7 right next to a "Old-school" 5.7, so make sure you check the FA dates.~Wm Jun 26, 2005
John Peterson
  5.7
John Peterson  
  5.7
Maybe it's getting cleaner with traffic - I didn't notice much loose stuff (and I would have easily been able to clean it up if there hadn't been a crowd at the base). There's a decent rap station at the tree. Pretty soft 5.7 but a lot of fun. Nov 26, 2005
Adub
 
Adub  
 
Fun route, although I think the face between Dandi-line and Sister Morphine is way more fun. Dec 7, 2008
grant.rudd
boulder, CO
grant.rudd   boulder, CO
Did it today, and I thought the bottom of the route didn't protect well at all. Before the crux, there is a super bomber #1 Camalot in the top pocket. I didn't like this climb that much. The moves seemed awkward, and it was really a 1 move wonder. Mescaline is much better. Apr 8, 2009
Count Chockula
Littleton, CO
 
Count Chockula   Littleton, CO
 
I thought this was a fun pitch with pretty solid rock and abundant gear possibilities. Thought-provoking crux. Once through the crux, the climbing eases considerably (which is unfortunate). Sure, the small ledge above the crux does have some loose scree, but that's Eldo. Just be careful when pulling your rope from the anchors...our rope brought down several small scree missles. It is possible to flip your rope over to the Sister Morphine side of the corner before pulling to minimize the chance of dislodging small rocks. Worth a quick lead if you're in the area. Oct 11, 2010
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
  5.7+
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
  5.7+
I agree with Dave and the Count. I would give it 2.5, but I don't have that option, so I am rounding up. Definitely worth doing. Oct 11, 2010
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.7
William Thiry   Las Vegas
  5.7
The old route description above needs to be updated, because the route is now clean and very good. Mar 5, 2016
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
  5.8
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
  5.8
Well worth doing - and clean - would get 3 stars in my opinion if it weren't for having to deal with the tree getting to the anchor. Mar 6, 2017