Ignominity is a pretty cool route with some steep cruxes and interesting climbing. Start at the right-facing dihedral about 25 feet left of Long John Wall.
P1. Ascend the easy dihedral, and head right around a small roof and tree. Now move back left and up the face (8) to a tree with slings.
P2. Clmb the easy dihedral up to the first crux, a bulge that you can lieback (8+). Now at the next rest stance, place another piece and crank the juggy, but steep crux (9). Pull up to a low angle dihedral, and move up to a big ledge.
P3. Now climb up and left through a wide slot, and make a balancy move to get situated on this sloping ledge. Carefully stand up and get the big jugs, and mantel up to the next section (8). The thin crack above will take a #2 Friend low, and a #3 RP higher. Get your left foot jammed high in the crack to reach the jug that marks the end of difficulties. Now traverse left on a horizontal crack to a nice belay ledge.
Descent: originally: make one more little pitch up 20 feet from this belay, and rap off of a tree with slings. There are two more trees with slings to get you down with a single 50m.
Alternatively, you can rappel off two bolted rap anchors ("the Sooberb rappel") followed by a walk-off to climber's left or a 3rd rap from a slung tree on climber's right.
From at least 2024: per Doug Haller: you can rappel off two bolted rap anchors ("the Sooberb rappel") followed by a walkoff to climber's left or a 3rd rap from a slung tree on climber's right.
Around Boulder, CO
Lone Tree, CO
Seattle, WA
My two shakes: seems like this route deserves an 's' rating to me. P1's 5.7-5.8 moves are above a #3 Camalot (with a shoulder runner if you're smart), with potential to deck on the ledge below if you screw up the unclear sequence up to the tree.
Pitch 3: While a #4 would probably have made me feel better, I would have been in for a nice bloody swing back into the blocky slot if I had blown any of the moves into the horiz. slot and over the roof. Also, that initial blocky slot is scary; climb gingerly, especially around the big vertical spike in the middle that is so tempting for hands and feet.
This route is FUN! So typical eldo climbing; strange sequences to descipher.
The beta for P3 (since my partner and I looked at it ~8 times before sending it); set up high into the horiz. slot, and then reach for a postive edge inside the slot on the roof. That's the hold that lets you rock over onto your placed foot on the corner. Apr 2, 2003
Portland, OR
Around Boulder, CO
To pull onto this ledge and work right ~ 3 meters more and pull the bulge on a few secure holds is what we originally called 'Ignore Me.' Mark and I originally called this 'The Beach' for his beached whale move onto the shelf from which he rolled over to grab the spur of rock to pull the roof moves on Ignominity. The pictures I posted are are taken from below, by me of Mark following, as I lead continuously through that roof, to a tree [above], placed and anchor and rapped down prior to his following the pitch on Ignominity.
To refresh my memory, Jason Haas and I went back on 3/2/07 and did both again. Rather than do the awkward moves up on Ignominity first and then go left on the crowded ledge to pull the bulge, I just started from the chossy ledge 3 M left of Ignominity. Easy enough, but a little runout. It continues up directly to an ending point with a second crux on a sharp horizontal mantle into a slightly scooped slab to finish about a meter and a half left of Ignominity. Apr 8, 2003
Colorado
Boulder
Fort Collins, CO
Arvada
Golden, CO
The 2nd pitch is beautiful! Nov 19, 2006
Broomfield, CO
As for the variation to the right with the bolt: We discussed the Rossiter variation and felt that he went through the roof of the original line, then moved right into a shallow, right-facing dihedral. Following the single bolt to the right, however, will take you to this dihedral, but via a much harder ascent. I think pulling past the bolt on the bad slopers (bring a brush to clean the lichen) to a microedge felt about 5.12b. This would take you through the roof on the right through the small crack then up past the bolt, which was definitely not 5.10b, but very fun. Mar 5, 2007
Chiang Mai, Thailand
My name is Add from Thailand. I climbed the Ignominity on 16th of June 2015 with a friend. Somehow I may forget my number 1 red cam and on the carabiner side write CMRCA. It could be on the top of the decent or on the ground.
If anyone found it. I would be appreciated.
Here are my contacts: - add@thailandclimbing.com
- 801-462-6305 ( My local number )
Best,
Add Jun 19, 2015
Colorado
Aside from that, this is a great route with some of the steepest 5.9 climbing in the canyon! Good luck figuring out the roof on pitch 3. Mar 4, 2017
I thought we were following the lines in Steve Levin's guidebook assiduously, but apparently we went astray early on P3. My partner went slightly L of the belay through a weakness in the roof, which we thought was 9+ afterwards and joked that this was the hardest 5.7 pitch we'd ever done. Maybe we were on the 10b variation, but the lines on the topo made it appear we were exactly on the original route.
Anyway, great fun on some short overhanging sections that were well-protected. We were nervous after all the talk here about it needing an S rating when in fact the gear was very good by Eldo standards. Aug 20, 2017
Boulder
Denver, CO
A little extra gear beta: I don't think a #4 is necessary for this route. You can definitely fit it in the slot on pitch 3, but you can also place a passable 0.5 directly above you before committing to standing up on that sloping ledge. You're basically toproping the move after that. Sep 14, 2019
Boulder, CO
Brighton, CO
Denvah
Off my soapbox, and again, this route was AWESOME! Do it. Heady and thoughtful climbing and great exposure on pitch 2. Some helpful gear beta: the first pitch crux I was able to adequately protect with a #0.2 X4 and a Black Totem. I advocate for the #4 as well. It is probably not necessary, but I sure enjoyed having it for the pitch 3 slot. May 1, 2023