Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob Robertson, 2000
Page Views: 992 total · 5/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Jan 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

This is a gem of a route on Cactus.

Start just right of Funkdamental and Poquito Mas. Climb easy rock to a ledge below the knifeblade arete. Climb up the left side of the arete until you are forced to cross over to the right side. It is a hairy move over the arete because a bad fall could do a number on you chances of having children as you have to do the splits to get around the sharp arete, but the move is not really hard. Once on the right side of the arete, face climb (crux) up to the anchors. If you stem backwards off of the right arete face, knock the grade down a bit as this bypasses the hardest climbing on the route.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Edward Jenner
  5.10b
Edward Jenner  
  5.10b
It was OK. I'd recommend the route if your're in the area, looking for a mid-10 and haven't done it, but I wouldn't do it again. Sep 4, 2003
Mic Fairchild
Boulder
  5.10a
Mic Fairchild   Boulder
  5.10a
A little different from the usual Shelf lines in that it moves around a corner (!), so you need a long sling. For the gear challenged, try two quicks clipped together. Another nice warm up or challenge at its level. Rating (typically) soft. Nov 3, 2003
Mikeco
Golden, CO
Mikeco   Golden, CO
If you go straight up the face on crimps, it will feel like 10c. Apr 28, 2008
Dpurf
Superior
 
Dpurf   Superior
 
Did not like this one. Not sure why I had to climb the fin or the face when I could just go up the easy stuff in the corner. Dec 13, 2008
Lauren D. Hollingsworth
Colorado and Kentucky
Lauren D. Hollingsworth   Colorado and Kentucky
Contrived at .10c. You'd have to climb with blinders on. Nov 27, 2009
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
  5.10c PG13
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
  5.10c PG13
Beware,
at the ledge, for an easier and safer clip, climb the easier corner to prevent decking on the ledge while clipping the next bolt.
October 2009 or January 2010, a climber sprained an ankle when going straight up to clip that bolt.
Just sayin'. Oct 26, 2010