Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob & Carrie Robertson, Chris Alstrin, 1999
Page Views: 5,103 total · 24/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


168 Opinions

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Description

IMHO this is the best 10 in all of Shelf. Possibly a little stiff for the grade. I'd almost say more 10d, but the ultimate combination of every type of move and features that I've found at Shelf.

Start two routes left (west) of The Book of Dude-Aronomy, and five routes left of Chunky Monkey. Begin with a rising, right-trending traverse on easy ground to gain a straight-up dihedral-crack system. There are several increasingly difficult sequences the higher you get, but the crux is at the very top; clearing the the lip of the slightly overhanging headwall just below the anchors.

This is an absolute "must do"!

Protection

9 bolts.

Photos

Brad Short
Saudia Aurora, CO
Brad Short   Saudia Aurora, CO
I agree with O.F. that the grade may be stiff, especially if you climb straight above the last bolt to the anchors. For those of use with lesser talents and a desire to keep things at 10c; step slightly right (but not too far!) after clipping the last bolt, and follow good pockets to the anchors. A stunning route no matter how it's done. Nov 14, 2002
The grade is definitely not stiff if you climb the 'natural' line which goes slightly right at the last bolt, in which case the crux is relatively short. I guess the anchors were put over to the left a bit so the rope would not hang over the sharp bulge when lowering or top-roping. May 27, 2003
Michael J Yarros
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Michael J Yarros   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
This route was excellent. Steep in sections, and interesting getting to the anchor. Oct 3, 2004
One star - maybe more if slabs are your thing. Apr 24, 2005
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
Curt Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
It ain't no slab, AC. Oct 17, 2011
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10c
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10c
At the top crux, the decent holds are obscured by a manic spatter of shitty semi-pockets, which for me turned the last two bolts into a miserable grovel. Not really hard for the grade, just hard to read. The guidebook doesn't lie when it says the moves are intensely varied, and for this I do give it some credit.

My partner loved it, guess I'm the oddball here. Nov 28, 2013
Julia  
A long climb, good moves, good holds. May 26, 2015
Branty
Boulder, CO
Branty   Boulder, CO
This was really fun! The top part is great. Don't miss it! Jan 28, 2018