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Utter To A Scream
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 10
votes
Routes in E. Cactus Cliff Far Right (Funkdemental and right)
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Affluenza S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Agave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Are You Experiential? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bionic Minnow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bombodido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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C.R.B. S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Cactus Cliff Addict S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chompin' at the Cholla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chunky Monkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cobra S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Commitment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cro-Magnum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Divinity School S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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E. Cactus Cliff Far Right (Funkdemental and right) | 5668 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Early Bird S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Escalando S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Et Tu, Brutus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fishisms T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fully Equipped S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Funkdemental S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Great Expectations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hero Driver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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High Heeled Tittty Twister S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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I Claudius S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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I Lean S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Impulsive Hands S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jamuary S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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LaCholla Jackson S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Morning Joe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New World Order S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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New-Moanya S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Out There Take Anything S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Part Muffalo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Politically Incorrect S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Poquito Mas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Quasi Quasar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Redman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Relampago S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rocky, You've Met Your Match aka I Quesada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shelf Pride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Six More Bottles of Bosco S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squeeze the Moment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Two For One S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Utter To A Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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White Punks on Pockets S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.63066, -105.21961 |
| FA: | Richard Aschert and Bob D'Antonio |
| Page Views: | 1,300 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Feb 22, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Utter To A Scream is sort of a variation to a chossy chimney near the far right side of Cactus. Sound appealing? Don't let the chimney deter you, the variation takes you out on some fun terrain that is worth the start.
Start up the bolted chimney (fully equipped), and at a point where the chimney pinches down a bit overhead, look to the left for a bolt that branches off for Utter To A Scream. Tweak left, get set up, and launch through a bulge into a classic sample of Shelf holds. The good climbing is short lived but worth checking out.
This would make a good first 12a as it is straightforward, is well-protected, has a clean fall, and is easy to hang/remove the draws.
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