Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Pat & Azenda Thompson, 2000
Page Views: 1,195 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Apr 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

This route is just right of Whiteman's Burden and left of Chompin' at the Cholla. The line follows small holds and great smearing feet on a blackened face to the anchors. The climbing is great from the ground up. Not much to say other than spot the crimps and move on, the crux may be at the last bolt and getting to the anchors from here. A very worthwhile route even though it only gets 1 star in the guide book, not sure about that? I know the photo of the route says '10c/d', but I think overall the ratings on this photo are a little shaky ??

Protection

6 bolts - 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks.

Photos

Fun short route but only if you have REALLY THICK calluses. This has got to be one sharpest routes at Shelf and every hold on the route is, not just one or two. I'm thinking that's why it's one star. Apr 12, 2002
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
On this face there are four bolted lines, all with their own anchors: Chompin' at the Cholla is far right, Don't be... is next. Does anyone know the names of the other two routes? One clips the first two or three bolts of Don't be... before going its own way.

Thanks Apr 23, 2004
The left variation of "Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves" was put up by Bob Robertson and is named "Six More Bottles of Bosco". Bob called it a 5.10a and after climbing it twice, that sounds about right to me. Jun 26, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.10d
Larry Shaw  
  5.10d
fun route, to bad it's so short. Jul 7, 2004
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10d
Curt Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10d
A little sharp and technical at the crux. Might as well keep on going past the anchors (left) and finish up with Six More Bottles for more climbing. Jun 14, 2009
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
Is this the route that shares the first 3 bolts with Early Bird? Based on the bolt count it should be, but neither the book nor this site says so. Nov 21, 2011