Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Rick Thompson, Don Silver, 1999
Page Views: 1,005 total · 6/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Mar 19, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

A pretty fun climb. Unfortunately, its squeezed between two crack systems making the intended line fairly inobvious. Locate the bolted crack, I Clauidius, and a partially bolted/trad line to the left. The next fully bolted line to the left is Divinity School.

Begin the lower section by climbing a crack feature to a cruxy move past the fourth bolt to a horizontal break. Rest here then continue up the pink face to the anchors. We climbed the upper section by first starting in a crack system to the right, then traversing past a nice sidepull move to a hueco, then traversing left again to a hand crack which we climbed to the anchors. Felt like low-5.12a. The section above the last bolt looked like it could be contrived direct (and thus maybe 12b??), but the hand crack is right there.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor

Photos

slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
This is a fun route which doesn't really get that much traffic. From below, it looks like there are no holds - but they keep magically appearing in the right places. The final headwall would be pretty hard without using the crack to the left. Dec 2, 2013