Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Johnny Musso, Richard Aschert and Dave Dangle, 2003
Page Views: 984 total · 5/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Dec 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

This route starts just left of White Punks on Pockets and climbs up a short thin crack (stick-clip the first bolts) to a ledge below a vertical face. From the ledge climb the obvious flake on the right side of the wall passing six bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Good climbing on the upper face/flake. Should clean up nicely with more ascents.

Protection

Nine bolts lead to a two-bolt anchor. Stick-clip the first bolt.

Photos

SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
The start is junky and the holds all sound hollow. I don't have a stick clip so I just climbed. The jug your holding when you clip the first bolt doesn't look/feel/sound inspiring at all.
If you have it, might as well stick it.
The upper half of the route was great!! Good moves, the rock is steep some friends were saying they got a mean right arm pump from this route. Jun 5, 2006
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
  5.10b
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
  5.10b
It's okay if you don't have a stick-clip but tread lightly through the first 2 bolts. The upper half of this route is a lot of fun. Apr 15, 2008
T-Bob
 
T-Bob  
 
Things seem to have cleaned up a bit for this route. Was on it today and though a few holds looked sketchy from afar, they proved solid on use. A really fun route I thought.
T May 9, 2010
slim

  5.10b/c
slim    
  5.10b/c
Good climbing above the ledge, although the anchors are in a curious location. Probably it would earn another star if the route just kept chugging up the crack instead of breaking left at the end.

The rock at the start is definitely not optimal - a stick clip is a pretty good idea. You don't realize what the rock is like until you thump it and find out it is a hanging sheet. Dec 22, 2012