Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,140 total · 29/month
Shared By: SirVato on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is number 93 in the beta photo. AWESOME!!

Boulder up to (or stick clip) the first bolt. Make some thoughtful moves that veer towards the right then, head straight up the bolt line to a blunt left facing flake. Work the flake to a good rest above. Milk it!! From here, turn the roof using faceholds and the arete to find another rest. . . . It's not over yet!! Balance your way up the tricky slab and finish off with a good reach a bit above the last bolt. Work your way right beneath the roof to access the anchors above the lip.

The "Shelf Road Rock" guidebook has an awesome description of this route. Something to the effect of "a seemingly endless supply of fresh cruxes as this brainteaser keeps you thinking", which I think is right on!!

Location

This route goes up the light-colored face of a small "buttress" to the right of "I Claudius" and "La Cholla".

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
(Correct me if I'm wrong please but I'm positive that there aren't more than this.)

Photos