Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,524 total · 30/month
Shared By: SirVato on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


184 Opinions

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Description

This is number 93 in the beta photo. AWESOME!!

Boulder up to (or stick clip) the first bolt. Make some thoughtful moves that veer towards the right then, head straight up the bolt line to a blunt left facing flake. Work the flake to a good rest above. Milk it!! From here, turn the roof using faceholds and the arete to find another rest. . . . It's not over yet!! Balance your way up the tricky slab and finish off with a good reach a bit above the last bolt. Work your way right beneath the roof to access the anchors above the lip.

The "Shelf Road Rock" guidebook has an awesome description of this route. Something to the effect of "a seemingly endless supply of fresh cruxes as this brainteaser keeps you thinking", which I think is right on!!

Location

This route goes up the light-colored face of a small "buttress" to the right of "I Claudius" and "La Cholla".

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
(Correct me if I'm wrong please but I'm positive that there aren't more than this.)

Photos

Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
 
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
 
Wow, what a climb. It is pockets, then a roof, and finishes on body tension moves. What more can you want? Sep 21, 2007
Kevin Detlor
BOZEMAN
Kevin Detlor   BOZEMAN
I made the mistake of climbing this on an empty stomach and almost puked while figuring out the moves on this route. Sweet route, everything from slab climbing to knee bars, very enjoyable nonetheless. Mar 10, 2008
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Great technical pocket pulling down low to a good rest before the upper slab crux sets in. It gets it's name from the upper slab section. If you lean just a little too far back while grabbing your rope to clip the bolts above the roof you'll come off. This climb was fun to watch my friend who's 5'0" try to hug the upper section. Mar 24, 2008
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
Super good just couldn't quite give it the fourth star. Nov 25, 2008
Nice line. The only problem with it to me was the fact that before climbing over the roof and onto the final technical section you could have a full sitting rest on the arete/corner. However, if the rest is used or not you still can't escape doing any of the crux moves and I feel the grad stands, but only get 3 stars from me. All in all, it's a must do line. Jan 2, 2009
Andrew Caraballo
Milwaukie, OR
 
Andrew Caraballo   Milwaukie, OR
 
Loved this route! Jan 2, 2010
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Great route! A damn fine .11. Work your way through slab, sidepulls, an evil sloper, and even a kneebar to one last roof (which you don't even have to climb) to the top! Oct 21, 2013
Jon Dory
  5.11a/b
Jon Dory  
  5.11a/b
Great climb! I battled the left side after the roof. Made it, but... staying right may be easier... ? Highly recommended! Feb 18, 2016
Charlie1590
Golden, CO
 
Charlie1590   Golden, CO
 
Really fun! There is some awkward funkiness in the middle, but it is an awesome climb nonetheless. Jan 5, 2017
Isaac Mauro
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Isaac Mauro   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
I had a wonderful time on this one. Pretty sustained climbing move wise, but most of the positions allow for shaking out which made the onsight possible for me. One might think you are done after pulling the roof onto the slab, but it keeps on giving all the way to the anchors. Probably the hardest I have ever tried on an onsight due to mucking up the slab sequence. Also really generously bolted to make for a not very heady lead. Oct 14, 2018