Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Rick Thompson, 2000
Page Views: 1,987 total · 10/month
Shared By: Sean Hall on Dec 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

This is the first route around the corner from Paleolithic Tool Traditions, and shares the first two bolts with Whiteman's Burden. The line starts in a chossy corner below the smooth, occasionally pocketed prow above. After clipping the first bolt, move right before figuring out the sequence to the ledge. Once on the small ledge, climb straight up the prow, using the bomber flake on the right and pockets on the left. When you reach the roof, your 55 feet of fun is over and it's time to lower.

Protection

6 camouflaged bolts to Fixe anchors.

Photos

Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
Anyone know what is up with the missing hanger on the third or forth bolt? Is the bolt bad or what? Nov 18, 2002
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
At some point a couple months back the nut loosened enough that it and the hanger came off when a climber clipped into it and hung. The bolt is fine, and a new nut and hanger are now in place - have at it! Dec 16, 2002
Aeon Aki    
 
In his description Sean says, "When you reach the roof, your 55 feet of fun is over and it's time to lower"; however, instead of moving out left to finish at the Affluenza anchors, you can link into the top 2 clips of Whiteman's Burden for some extra, though a bit chossy, climbing. Sep 21, 2008
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
That crux bolt sees a lot of action, it was pretty loose this weekend. Check it before committing to the moves above it. Apr 6, 2009
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
It really does go both ways. My partner stayed with the layback while I jumped onto the face early. 11c both ways. Jan 18, 2010
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
 
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
 
The crux bolt is still loose. Next time I'm up there, I'll take a wrench to it. Mar 12, 2018