Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 598 total · 4/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Sep 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This is another stupid Cactus squeeze job where one continually wonders what's "on route".

This is the line of bolts between I Quesada and I Claudius. It is much harder than the guidebook rating if one avoids IQ. Once one finally breaks away from IQ, there is a decent move.

Protection

7 bolts. Contrary to the guidebook, no gear required.

Photos

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Chris Oshiro
Pueblo, CO
Chris Oshiro   Pueblo, CO
Definitely avoid this route, beyond not having a clue whats on and off, this route follows a sandy crack on the left side with TONS of loose debris. It is the crack where water runs off the top after rain. Hands or feet that look solid are just waiting to pop and there are cactus needles all over it. Jun 6, 2012
John Maurer
Denver, CO
 
John Maurer   Denver, CO
 
To keep the grade at or below 10c/d, some use of the larger crack to the left is essential (so yes, a bit contrived - but still pleasant and even really good at times). This has seemingly cleaned up a bit (no cacti), but there are a few holds to avoid in spots given questionable rock quality (again, regarding the supplemental crack on the left). Judicious use of reliable holds seemed pretty obvious, plus it is possible to utilize just the thin crack and face holds/pockets (10c/d; good quality) as the bolt line veers toward I, Claudius.

You, like Caesar, will be compelled to trust in Brutus as the Republic - er, crack on the left - gets a bit ugly. I'll climb this one again. Apr 11, 2016