Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Pat Thompson, Rick Thompson, 2000
Page Views: 2,251 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


111 Opinions

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Description

Boulder up into the blocky roof, clip the first bolt, mount the roof (crux) and cruise the fun and easy dihedral above. For an interesting start, instead of surmounting the initial roof on face holds right of the 1st bolt, try via the flake and pocket to the left. Two stars if continuity of difficulty isn't involved in your quality scale, only the joy of movement.

Location

Start at a prominent low roof with chunky rock, around the left corner from the face with I Claudius.

Protection

Seven bolts to two bolt coldshuts. Keep the belayer/spotter close by for the 1st bolt crux.

Photos

Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
I guess everyone has decided to up all the grades for the new guide. This route is NOT 10d, it might be as the book says 10b but perhaps not even 10b. This route also does NOT deserve 2 stars ? stupid start (some very loose blocks), no flow to the route once it gets going. This is one of the worst 10s I have climbed at Shelf. Apr 12, 2002
Brad Short
Saudia Aurora, CO
Brad Short   Saudia Aurora, CO
Yes, the crux is short, the roof move really isn't all that bad if your footwork is solid, and the route has a distinctive change in character after the second bolt. But I liked it. However, it seemed odd to clip a bolt from a solid hand jam. I've probably placed as many stoppers and cams as I have clipped bolts, and I appreciate the traditions and commitment that gear routes represent. As a general rule, I don't think protectable cracks need bolts. For me, however, the bolts seem to work here. Nov 14, 2002
Larry Shaw
  5.10b
Larry Shaw  
  5.10b
5.10b tops. I thought the climbing after the roof was funner than going over the roof. Mar 27, 2004
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Yay stick clip!! I led this route on Sunday. I thought the roof was tricky but it's all a matter of getting the sequence down. Everything past the roof seemed no harder than 10a. Fun route. Dec 6, 2004
Kevin Detlor
BOZEMAN
Kevin Detlor   BOZEMAN
I definitely have to agree about this route not being 10c/d, I'd say 10a just because of the bouldery start, no moves harder than 5.9 after the roof if you know how to jam. Still really fun if you enjoy roofs and cracks, I had a great time on it! May 18, 2007
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
I agree with the rating on this route. The start at the roof was tricky in certain spots, but if you try and figure out the moves before you start it is easier than it looks. The rest of the climb was a 5.9+/5.10 at best but just as much fun as the roof. The landing under the roof is soft and most of the rocks have been removed. Jan 29, 2008
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
10a? Give me a break. Do any of you think you could have done this when you were climbing 10a? Yes it lets up to 9/10a climbing above the roof, but the beginning is all of the suggested grade. Fun stemming above the roof. Mar 23, 2008
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.10d
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.10d
No way this route is 10a. The roof climbs like a V1 boulder problem. Yes, it's pretty easy above the first bolt but C'mon, 10a at the start? May 12, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b/c
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b/c
Fantastic boulder sequence to the start! And the crack climbing above is just pure fun. Oct 27, 2010
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
I did this today with the 10a mindset as listed in Bob D'Antonio's book and found it rather hard for the grade. I compared it (after the roof) to Dihedrus (10b), and this felt equally as challenging if not more due to the roof for the start.... In any case, still a fun one! 10b/c. Nov 9, 2013
Julia
  5.10c/d
Julia  
  5.10c/d
One of the more fun 10s at Shelf. Pull a great roof to some crack/pocket climbing. May 26, 2015