[Hide Comment] I guess everyone has decided to up all the grades for the new guide. This route is NOT 10d, it might be as the book says 10b but perhaps not even 10b. This route also does NOT deserve 2 stars ? stupid start (some very loose blocks), no flow to the route once it gets going. This is one of the worst 10s I have climbed at Shelf. Apr 12, 2002

[Hide Comment] Yes, the crux is short, the roof move really isn't all that bad if your footwork is solid, and the route has a distinctive change in character after the second bolt. But I liked it. However, it seemed odd to clip a bolt from a solid hand jam. I've probably placed as many stoppers and cams as I have clipped bolts, and I appreciate the traditions and commitment that gear routes represent. As a general rule, I don't think protectable cracks need bolts. For me, however, the bolts seem to work here. Nov 14, 2002

[Hide Comment] 5.10b tops. I thought the climbing after the roof was funner than going over the roof. Mar 27, 2004

[Hide Comment] Yay stick clip!! I led this route on Sunday. I thought the roof was tricky but it's all a matter of getting the sequence down. Everything past the roof seemed no harder than 10a. Fun route. Dec 6, 2004

[Hide Comment] I definitely have to agree about this route not being 10c/d, I'd say 10a just because of the bouldery start, no moves harder than 5.9 after the roof if you know how to jam. Still really fun if you enjoy roofs and cracks, I had a great time on it! May 18, 2007

[Hide Comment] I agree with the rating on this route. The start at the roof was tricky in certain spots, but if you try and figure out the moves before you start it is easier than it looks. The rest of the climb was a 5.9+/5.10 at best but just as much fun as the roof. The landing under the roof is soft and most of the rocks have been removed. Jan 29, 2008

[Hide Comment] 10a? Give me a break. Do any of you think you could have done this when you were climbing 10a? Yes it lets up to 9/10a climbing above the roof, but the beginning is all of the suggested grade. Fun stemming above the roof. Mar 23, 2008

[Hide Comment] No way this route is 10a. The roof climbs like a V1 boulder problem. Yes, it's pretty easy above the first bolt but C'mon, 10a at the start? May 12, 2008

[Hide Comment] Fantastic boulder sequence to the start! And the crack climbing above is just pure fun. Oct 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] I did this today with the 10a mindset as listed in Bob D'Antonio's book and found it rather hard for the grade. I compared it (after the roof) to Dihedrus (10b), and this felt equally as challenging if not more due to the roof for the start.... In any case, still a fun one! 10b/c. Nov 9, 2013

[Hide Comment] One of the more fun 10s at Shelf. Pull a great roof to some crack/pocket climbing. May 26, 2015

[Hide Comment] I was climbing here about a week and a half ago, and we watched the tongue block finally break off (the right hand for the girl in the white tank). It probably gained a grade beyond whatever you previously thought it was; I'd say it's now 10c or d. Mar 23, 2019