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Routes in Cactus Cliff

Affluenza S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Afterburner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Agave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alexi's Climb S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alignment, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost French S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Almost Gothic S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Amiga S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Are You Experiential? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Axis of Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Banana Split S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed Wire Love S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beach Ball S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beef Cake Formula S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bionic Minnow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Slabbeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blackman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blade Runner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blarney Stone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blond Princes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bombodido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bur-Har-Bur S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cactus Cliff Addict S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candy for Big Kids S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cellulite District T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centurion Enigma S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Cheeseburger In Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Child's Play S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chompin' at the Cholla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Christmas Tree S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chunky Monkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cobra S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Commitment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Crimpson Candy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Critic's Choice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cro-Magnum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crynoid Corner S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cure For The Common Crimp S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Da Fly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dances with Cholla S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dereliction Affliction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dihedrus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Divinity School S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Early Bird S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escalando S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Et Tu, Brutus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fantasia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fast Food Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fiscal Cliff S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fishisms T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of the Phoenix S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
French Are Here, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fully Equipped S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Funkdemental S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gabby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Babies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glue Slippage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Red Road, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gravitations S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Expectations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Trigger S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Half Breed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hero Driver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Heeled Tittty Twister S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hot Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hurricane Hinzi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
I Claudius S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I Lean S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'm Having A Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Ian's Climb S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Illegal Smile S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impulsive Hands S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Institutional Meat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jamuary S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joy of Cholla, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jumpin' the Gun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Thesenga It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kalahari Sidewinder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Killer Toupee, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Louie's Traverse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kipu Pawkets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kodachrome S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Temperatura de Shelf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
LaCholla Jackson S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lats Don't Have Feelings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Legend on the Fall S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leisure Class S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manly Bulges S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Midget Toss S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Misalignment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning Joe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Fred T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Muscle Beach S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
New Ethics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New World Order S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ol' 47 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oscar de la Cholla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out There Take Anything S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Part Muffalo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pick Pocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Politically Incorrect S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poquito Mas S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Puff Daddy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quarterback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quasi Quasar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Reach Around, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Eclipse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Giant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Relampago S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Risky Business S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shelf Pride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Man's Burden S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Six More Bottles of Bosco S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slicer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Eclipse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Belle S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spray Lord S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeeze the Moment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stand, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Suka S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Sam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Third Stage S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Three-Quarter Ton S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thumbs Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tits Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total Recount S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turkey's Bleak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two For One S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under A Blood Red Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Usual Suspects, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Utter To A Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wadsworth Boulevard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Punks on Pockets S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whiteman's Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
World Peace S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bob Robertson, Ed Quesada, on gear 1986 now retrobolted
Page Views: 9,461 total, 51/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Aug 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a seriously fun, bolted crack that goes at 5.11b between Cactus Cliff Addict and Ain't Nothing But a Hang Dog. Start just to the left of the boulders in the corner and follow the obvious hand and finger crack past seven bolts. Do not confuse this route with Cactus Cliff Addict which climbs directly up the corner and then moves out onto the face right of I Claudius.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.
419
Sacramento
 
419   Sacramento
 
My opinion: This is a classic Colorado crack climb.

Where else in CO can you find a limestone crack of this quality? Please tell me so I can go climb it. Warm up on Oscar de la Cholla for a few finger locks and hand jams. Jan 26, 2013
Slade
Gunnison
Slade   Gunnison
Hey Dan...way to go, buddy. The "lead on gear" mentality, I think, puts you in this pocket. I'm sure it was cool to do with gear. Will get on that thing with gear soon. Dec 17, 2011
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
Hey Slade - Did this on gear a couple of months ago. The start is pretty spicy (recommend a good spotter) but well worth the effort. I found myself "re-experiencing" a lot of the routes in the area when approaced with a gear mentality (but I must admit I am glad I wired them on sport first...definitely some funky placements and mild runouts.) Feb 27, 2011
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
Not recently, but yeah about 7 or 8 years ago. Seems I remember the gear being pretty good. Jan 27, 2011
Slade
Gunnison
Slade   Gunnison
Anybody know anybody that's done this thing with gear any time recently? Jan 27, 2011
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a
5.10!?! You people are high.

OK, fine...the CRACK sections of I Claudius are fairly sinch, once you develop some decent technique. (Last spring, I had nothing. After having spent two Octobers now in Yosemite? Cinch.) But the rating for this climb comes at the expense of the one or two acrobatic, face climbing, lieback moves that gain the bulge, NOOOOT for any of the crack moves, which happen to be 99% of the route. (So, spare us the tedious comparisons to other crack climbs/areas.)

And those moves ain't no 5.10 moves. Maybe not 11b, not at Shelf, anyway. But certainly harder than 5.10. Oct 25, 2010
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
I guess I need to work on my crack technique, because I found this to be a strenuous 5.11. Without a doubt worth doing, but for those of us who primarily sport climb, the 10d consensus here will throw you off, IMHO. And if you're a solid 11 climber, the first clip is a breeze. May 30, 2010
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.11a
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.11a
Super fun climb - I find it a pleasant convenience to be able to hop on such a route with the standard Shelf rack. I'm predominantly a crack climber and I agree with the folks who consider the 5.11 realm a bit high for the jamming section - probably more like Valley 5.9 handcrack. The roof part sure feels easy 11ish, though. Different styles, different cruxes - typical of a varied climb. As for the first bolt, it seemed pretty casual to me - just focus a little headspace on the slightly polished feet. Fantastic, varied, convenient route! Feb 16, 2009
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
5.10d
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
5.10d
Bolted crack: ahhhh. I'm sure if the rock weren't freezing cold this route would've been less numbing and more amazing. I'd say 10d/11a. Feb 8, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
Bolted crack! It's Shelf and it's fun. I did find a red OP link cam placement in the crack between bolts 3 and 4 to be nice for the head. (No, I don't take a rack to Shelf but I do carry a couple of link cams pretty much everywhere for their versatility in cases just like this one.) Jan 27, 2008
SirVato
Boulder
  5.10d
SirVato   Boulder
  5.10d
Sweet route!! I had a good right hand for clipping the first bolt as well. If you blow it, the landing will be shitty though.
Did anyone else notice the runout between bolts 3&4 ?? Seemed like a looong way between those. If you're comfy on cracks it won't be an issue but if cracks are not your thing you may want to keep your cool up there. IMO the jams through that section are straight forward and fairly easy so it's not too big a deal.

Regarding the comment about bolted cracks: I would usually agree w/ the sentiment that a bolted crack is pretty lame. However, when was the last time you took a rack to Shelf Road??

I'm glad I got a chance to get on this, bolted or not it's a great line worth doing. I don't know if it's 11. . . I can't onsight 11 cracks for the life of me yet but, I got this one fairly easily. Jun 5, 2006
Brandon Bogardus
Scottsdale, AZ
Brandon Bogardus   Scottsdale, AZ
I haven't done this climb, but why are there bolts next to a crack? Any self-respecting (and perhaps tub-thumpin') trad climber would call this lame... Apr 13, 2006
ROC
Englewood, CO
 
ROC   Englewood, CO
 
I felt that the 5.11 rating was justified, but I'm not a great crack climber by any stretch of the imagination. As far as the above "stick clip" comments goes, I lead this last weekend and felt very solid clipping the first bolt. I had a bomber right hand on the flake out right of the bolt. I don't believe this is off route as clipping the bolt from this stance is easiliy within reach. Look for the no hands rest (knee bar) just under the little overhang!!! Great climb!!! May 10, 2005
A concerned citizen  
  5.10c
Good climb. Not really a 5.11 though. It would be nice if someone could put a wrench to the left anchor bolt. It's nut was finger-tight after I left. Jan 26, 2005
FA: Bob Robertson and Ed Q with trad pro. Dec 31, 2004
I did this years ago... before I considered myself a crack climber, and I thought it was 5.10.

It might tick in at 9+ in the South Platte. I'll give it 5.10 for sport climbers.

Just imagine if you had to place the pro...

rob Dec 28, 2004
Drew Allan
Denver/Aspen
 
Drew Allan   Denver/Aspen
 
If you want to go limestone crack climbing at Shelf, this is your route. It offers everything from fingers to hands and definitely merits three stars. I climbed to the first bolt with my left hand in the crack and was able to clip and down climb to the right. It is thin to clip and you don't want to fall. If it doesn't feel right, do as Bryson suggests and stick clip. Save your arms for the moves over the little roof. RT's book suggests 11a and this site 11b.Whichever it is, you will be smiling at the anchors. Jun 9, 2003
A stick clip might be useful for the first bolt because it is a tricky clip above some jagged boulders. Mar 29, 2003