Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Carrie and Bob Robertson, 2000
Page Views: 1,162 total · 5/month
Shared By: Lyle Monzyk on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

This climb starts 30-40 feet before La Cholla Jackson, and 20-30 feet before Chunky Monkey. Look for a large dihedral with a distinct knife-edge arete in the corner. Great Expectations begins on an east-facing wall 3 climbs to the left of this arete. The picture included has this listed as #80.

The climbing starts by clipping a red homemade coldshut, and two other bolts before jumping around the arete on great holds (8). One should use long runners or unclip the second draw, and have your partner unclip the first to reduce rope drag. The climbing continues to a steep and juggy headwall with small roofs and long reaches. Good rests along with spectacular position and exposure makes this a great climb!!

Location

Per 303scott: I think the route location description is wrong. I think it is the 3rd route to climber's RIGHT of the knife edge. 3rd to the left is an 11b.

Protection

9 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

Mic Fairchild
Boulder
  5.10b
Mic Fairchild   Boulder
  5.10b
A fun and sustained route everyone should consider. As with most Cactus climbs, ratings may be a little soft.

Another fun line when you're cranking 10-15 pitches per day. Nov 3, 2003
Mikeco
Golden, CO
Mikeco   Golden, CO
Only way to make it 10c is to stay out of the corner. In one place, about where shown in the picture I think you will have to use the corner to avoid making it harder than rated. But if you use it too much, the route will seem soft. Go straight up to the anchors from the last bolt and you will be crimping and not downrating the climb. Apr 28, 2008
I think the route location description is wrong. I think it is the 3rd route to climber's RIGHT of the knife edge. 3rd to the left is an 11b. Mar 4, 2010
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
I used the corner for a couple moves as shown in the picture. Without it, there's no way this would be a 5.10. Apr 12, 2010
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
 
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
 
I assumed the corner/crack was the trad line Fishisms, so I tried only climbing the face. There is no way it is 5.10 or even 5.11 if you don't use the corner (I felt it was harder than the 11c I got on next). After flailing, I gave up and used the corner, in which case it felt more like 5.9. I just don't see how this goes at 10c unless you use some contrived sequence where the corner is "on" some times and not "on" other times.... Jan 17, 2012
I climbed this on 2/15/16 after sending 14 Karats 2nd go. There is absolutely no way this rig is even close to 5.10. If you stay solely on the face and follow the bolt line, it is legitimately hard. Perhaps over time, some holds have broken off as there are scattered rock scars. If you want to keep this even mildly in the realm of moderate, the dirty corner is on. A bit of a run to the anchor. Not terribly recommended. Feb 16, 2016
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.12a
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.12a
I'll reiterate. You'll have to cheat away from the bolt line. Otherwise, it's 5.12 territory. Mar 6, 2017