Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bob and Carrie Robertson, Julian Smith, 2001
Page Views: 3,045 total · 15/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Jan 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


136 Opinions

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Description

Located between Politically Incorrect and Shelf Pride, this route ascends a cool crack that splits a headwall above a roof. Start as for Politically Incorrect, but go straight up to the roof instead of traversing right. Pull the roof to the left side and continue straight up the finger crack. Either clip the anchors at the end of the crack or step left and continue up to the anchors on Shelf Pride.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

Call it 10b. A fun route but look out for some loose rock down low. The bolt spacing is a little "sporty" on the easier sections so a leader pushing his/her limits might want to try a different route. May 4, 2002
Brad Short
Saudia Aurora, CO
Brad Short   Saudia Aurora, CO
I agree with Dave on the 10b rating. Although the bolts aren't as close as they can be on other Cactus routes, I felt the solid hand and finger jams resulted in confident climbing. Maybe my paws just fit the cracks well. A fun route. Nov 30, 2003
Clint Ballard
Greeley, CO
  5.10a
Clint Ballard   Greeley, CO
  5.10a
The guidebook calls this climb 10a. It is bolted fine and should not be avoided. Nov 30, 2008
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.10a
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.10a
Easier than some of the .9s on Cactus. I'd say: 10a. The bolts are well placed. I would not discourage a 10a leader from this one. Feb 24, 2009
I really liked this route, it looked harder than it was. Also when i reached the anchors both the nuts on the bolts were so loose i could finger tighten them. The bolts seemed fine but the "hangers" are barely on there, i backed it up with the one cam i always have on me (yay green link) and tightened as much as I could with my fingers. Someone might want to take a wrench up there or something. Apr 28, 2009
Gabe Anderson  
5.10a
I thought this was a very fun climb. Bolts are well placed. The crux for me was after moving out on to the face and clipping the last bolt before the anchors. I'd say 10a is fair. Apr 7, 2010