Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Rick Thompson & John Welchhans, 2000
Page Views: 6,518 total · 30/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on May 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

About 100 yds west of the Chunky Monkey-LaCholla Jackson zoo is a tall section of very good rock. Funkdemental is the furthest east of these. This is great fun route that reminded me a lot of "The Sinks".

Start above a cave-like hollow and up the hillside to the right, in the same place as Poquito Mas. Watch out for cactus here especially when you pull your rope. Clip the 2nd and 3rd bolts with a long sling or you'll probably run into a lot of rope drag up higher. Then start the fun stuff. Traverse left around the top of the cave on HUGE huecos and up more of the same to a stance under a fair-sized bulge. The crux is a long reach over the bulge to a good edge. The rest of the route climbs the arete using holds on both sides to another stance and some more great pockets to the anchors.

Protection

10 bolts, a couple of long runners, anchors at top.
Kind of contrived, since you can easily get around the crux by climbing on the arete 3 feet to the right of the bulge. Cool position, though. Nov 19, 2002
Edward Jenner
  5.11a
Edward Jenner  
  5.11a
Excellent route. Overhanging jugs, deadpoint crux and pockets really mix things up. May 27, 2003
Mic Fairchild
Boulder
  5.11b
Mic Fairchild   Boulder
  5.11b
One of the many good routes here. Have your belayer unclip your first draw after you move left around the corner. Don't reveal the secret hold in your beta! Oct 28, 2003
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
AC, just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route. This is one of the best easy 5.11s at Shelf. If you are tall, you can bypass the use of the "secret" hold and reach the large jug by staying left of the arete at the bulge. Oct 29, 2003
Greaser  
I like the varied nature of this route. It climbs better than it looks and progressively gets more difficult as you climb it. Oct 29, 2003
Joe Collins  
 
" just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route."

So 3 or 4 feet to the side of a bolt is off route? I thought that if you are following a bolt line, anything within reach is on route... if not, the route falls under the category of "contrived".

I did this route this past weekend, and I have to agree with the AC on this one. At the "crux", I climbed the obvious easier ground just to the right of the bolt and traversed back left to the next bolt. I realized after doing this that I had probably gone "off-route", so I downclimbed and did the crux the "right" way. It seemed slightly contrived.

In my opinion, a classic sport route combines good climbing with an inspiring line that doesn't avoid obvious natural features. Maybe other people don't include the last factor in their definition of "classic". There are tons of 2-3 star sport climbs at Shelf, but according to the rating system on this site, one star sounds about right: worth doing, but for myself, probably not worth the effort to repeat. Oct 29, 2003
Edward Jenner
  5.11a
Edward Jenner  
  5.11a
Secret hold? Shit, I didn't find any secret hold! I think I went the easy way and still thought it was 11a. Man, now I realize why I have trouble with those 5.9s.

This discussion makes me realize how people see and climb routes so differently. Quite interesting.

I think most of the nearby routes pretty much suck, but then they get 2-3 stars and then this one gets one from some folks simply because it offers the opportunity to go gardening (or is that too far right?). Nov 3, 2003
Kirk Woerner
  5.11a
Kirk Woerner  
  5.11a
If you went gardening, you were not on Funkdamental. This route starts in an overhang, swings out left, and goes straight up clean rock. Nov 5, 2003
I like the climb, but 11b? What happened to the 10d grade that was in the Rock and Ice supplement guide from years back? I thought that was right on. What's with a lot of the grades that got "bumped" up a notch or two in the Cactus Guide.

10d, straight up the bolts. 2-3 stars. Well worth repeating.

Rob Dec 28, 2004
Very fun regardless of comments above - this is a great warm up. Apr 24, 2005
Adrian Hill
  5.11b
Adrian Hill  
  5.11b
Around 12/04/05, the nut holding the hanger on the upper of the two bolts at the bulge was loose. I managed to tighten it by hand, but take care with it. If you're in the area with a wrench, you could generate some good karma by going up and tightening it. Dec 15, 2005
Will Butler
Boulder, CO
Will Butler   Boulder, CO
11a seemed about right for this excelent climb. Great exposure up wild holds and pockets. I didn't feel that it was contrived as long as you stayed on the arete proper. 4 stars. Apr 30, 2007
Kelbad Henderson
Colorado Springs
Kelbad Henderson   Colorado Springs
On Sunday, 10-28-07, there was a mean little rattlesnake that had taken up residence below the big rock that you land on when you lower off this climb. Unfortunately, no one saw it until after it had bit a dog. (BTW, after an overnight stay at the vet, the dog is okay) Oct 31, 2007
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
 
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
 
Fun route, but I don't recall it being contrived or particularly difficult. Maybe it was a height thing? Definitely worth doing if you are over here and an easy tick for the aspiring 11 leader. Feb 18, 2008
I'm still trying to figure out what move was supposed to be 5.11.... I'm no superman, but what's the opposite of sandbag? Apr 14, 2011
Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
Matt Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
I agree with Germsauce. I found it to be easier than an 11, but I am also 6'4'". Awesome route, my favorite at Shelf for the moment. Feb 20, 2012
Julia
 
Julia  
 
Great climb, cool movements up at the top. May 17, 2015
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.11a
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
  5.11a
This route is amazing!!! Great varied movement. Get on this thing! There is very little rope drag if you skip the first bolt and use long draws on the 2nd and 3rd. Nov 8, 2015
Aaron Furman
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
Aaron Furman   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
What a great way to warm up your entire body on a cold December morning - great route.... Dec 13, 2015
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.11b
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.11b
I don't understand any of the negative commentary on this route. I thought this route was a blast. I clipped the first bolt for the first initial moves then unclipped the first bolt. Continued up to the second bolt and clipped the second bolt. I climbed up to the third bolt and put a long runner on that bolt and downclimbed to unclip the second bolt. I had zero rope drag. I don't have any idea what anyone is talking about with secret holds and climbing 3 feet to the right of the crux. The climbing seemed really straightforward. It is extremely soft for the grade but barrels of fun! Jan 16, 2016
Britt
Golden
 
Britt   Golden
 
As of 10/23/2016, there is a wasps nest 3 feet left of the anchors. You don't have to stick your hand in their home for them to attack you. Cleaning anchors while being attacked by a colony of wasps is stressful and painful. I climbed this at sunset, it's likely they are more active during the day.
In the current condition, don't clean this if you're allergic to insect stings. Oct 24, 2016
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
Oh boy. What a fantastic route. Look out for wasps on the lower section in warmer weather, though! Jan 28, 2018