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Funkdemental

5.11a, Sport, 85 ft,  Avg: 3.2 from 246 votes
FA: Rick Thompson & John Welchhans, 2000
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > Cactus Cliff

Description

About 100 yds west of the Chunky Monkey-LaCholla Jackson zoo is a tall section of very good rock. Funkdemental is the furthest east of these. This is great fun route that reminded me a lot of "The Sinks".

Start above a cave-like hollow and up the hillside to the right, in the same place as Poquito Mas. Watch out for cactus here especially when you pull your rope. Clip the 2nd and 3rd bolts with a long sling or you'll probably run into a lot of rope drag up higher. Then start the fun stuff. Traverse left around the top of the cave on HUGE huecos and up more of the same to a stance under a fair-sized bulge. The crux is a long reach over the bulge to a good edge. The rest of the route climbs the arete using holds on both sides to another stance and some more great pockets to the anchors.

Protection

10 bolts, a couple of long runners, anchors at top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

High on the route, near the crux. March 2011. (View full res to best appreciate it.)
[Hide Photo] High on the route, near the crux. March 2011. (View full res to best appreciate it.)
Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
[Hide Photo] Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
Credits for the picture go to Mike! Thanks!
[Hide Photo] Credits for the picture go to Mike! Thanks!
Chuck w/ helpful crossover beta at the routes crux.
[Hide Photo] Chuck w/ helpful crossover beta at the routes crux.
Ken leading Funkdemetal....
[Hide Photo] Ken leading Funkdemetal....
Enjoying the climb before I was attacked by a colony of wasps.
[Hide Photo] Enjoying the climb before I was attacked by a colony of wasps.
One of my favorites at Shelf.
[Hide Photo] One of my favorites at Shelf.
Tristan Hechtel on Funkdemental.
[Hide Photo] Tristan Hechtel on Funkdemental.
This guy is currently camped out under the landing zone of Funkdemental when you lower off....
[Hide Photo] This guy is currently camped out under the landing zone of Funkdemental when you lower off....
Funky view of Funkdemental.
[Hide Photo] Funky view of Funkdemental.
Mark Calder rapping off Funkademental at the end of the day.
[Hide Photo] Mark Calder rapping off Funkademental at the end of the day.
Cactus Cliff - Right (1).<br>
<br>
The Price is Right is now named Legend on the Fall.<br>
<br>
La Estacion de Shelf is now named La Temperatura de Shelf.
[Hide Photo] Cactus Cliff - Right (1). The Price is Right is now named Legend on the Fall. La Estacion de Shelf is now named La Temperatura de Shelf.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Kind of contrived, since you can easily get around the crux by climbing on the arete 3 feet to the right of the bulge. Cool position, though. Nov 19, 2002
Edward Jenner
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Excellent route. Overhanging jugs, deadpoint crux and pockets really mix things up. May 27, 2003
Mic Fairchild
Boulder
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] One of the many good routes here. Have your belayer unclip your first draw after you move left around the corner. Don't reveal the secret hold in your beta! Oct 28, 2003
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
[Hide Comment] AC, just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route. This is one of the best easy 5.11s at Shelf. If you are tall, you can bypass the use of the "secret" hold and reach the large jug by staying left of the arete at the bulge. Oct 29, 2003
[Hide Comment] I like the varied nature of this route. It climbs better than it looks and progressively gets more difficult as you climb it. Oct 29, 2003
[Hide Comment] " just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route."

So 3 or 4 feet to the side of a bolt is off route? I thought that if you are following a bolt line, anything within reach is on route... if not, the route falls under the category of "contrived".

I did this route this past weekend, and I have to agree with the AC on this one. At the "crux", I climbed the obvious easier ground just to the right of the bolt and traversed back left to the next bolt. I realized after doing this that I had probably gone "off-route", so I downclimbed and did the crux the "right" way. It seemed slightly contrived.

In my opinion, a classic sport route combines good climbing with an inspiring line that doesn't avoid obvious natural features. Maybe other people don't include the last factor in their definition of "classic". There are tons of 2-3 star sport climbs at Shelf, but according to the rating system on this site, one star sounds about right: worth doing, but for myself, probably not worth the effort to repeat. Oct 29, 2003
Edward Jenner
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Secret hold? Shit, I didn't find any secret hold! I think I went the easy way and still thought it was 11a. Man, now I realize why I have trouble with those 5.9s.

This discussion makes me realize how people see and climb routes so differently. Quite interesting.

I think most of the nearby routes pretty much suck, but then they get 2-3 stars and then this one gets one from some folks simply because it offers the opportunity to go gardening (or is that too far right?). Nov 3, 2003
Kirk Woerner
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] If you went gardening, you were not on Funkdamental. This route starts in an overhang, swings out left, and goes straight up clean rock. Nov 5, 2003
[Hide Comment] I like the climb, but 11b? What happened to the 10d grade that was in the Rock and Ice supplement guide from years back? I thought that was right on. What's with a lot of the grades that got "bumped" up a notch or two in the Cactus Guide.

10d, straight up the bolts. 2-3 stars. Well worth repeating.

Rob Dec 28, 2004
[Hide Comment] Very fun regardless of comments above - this is a great warm up. Apr 24, 2005
Adrian Hill
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Around 12/04/05, the nut holding the hanger on the upper of the two bolts at the bulge was loose. I managed to tighten it by hand, but take care with it. If you're in the area with a wrench, you could generate some good karma by going up and tightening it. Dec 15, 2005
Will Butler
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] 11a seemed about right for this excelent climb. Great exposure up wild holds and pockets. I didn't feel that it was contrived as long as you stayed on the arete proper. 4 stars. Apr 30, 2007
Kelbad Henderson
Colorado Springs
[Hide Comment] On Sunday, 10-28-07, there was a mean little rattlesnake that had taken up residence below the big rock that you land on when you lower off this climb. Unfortunately, no one saw it until after it had bit a dog. (BTW, after an overnight stay at the vet, the dog is okay) Oct 31, 2007
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route, but I don't recall it being contrived or particularly difficult. Maybe it was a height thing? Definitely worth doing if you are over here and an easy tick for the aspiring 11 leader. Feb 18, 2008
[Hide Comment] I'm still trying to figure out what move was supposed to be 5.11.... I'm no superman, but what's the opposite of sandbag? Apr 14, 2011
Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] I agree with Germsauce. I found it to be easier than an 11, but I am also 6'4'". Awesome route, my favorite at Shelf for the moment. Feb 20, 2012
Julia
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb, cool movements up at the top. May 17, 2015
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This route is amazing!!! Great varied movement. Get on this thing! There is very little rope drag if you skip the first bolt and use long draws on the 2nd and 3rd. Nov 8, 2015
Aaron Furman
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] What a great way to warm up your entire body on a cold December morning - great route.... Dec 13, 2015
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] I don't understand any of the negative commentary on this route. I thought this route was a blast. I clipped the first bolt for the first initial moves then unclipped the first bolt. Continued up to the second bolt and clipped the second bolt. I climbed up to the third bolt and put a long runner on that bolt and downclimbed to unclip the second bolt. I had zero rope drag. I don't have any idea what anyone is talking about with secret holds and climbing 3 feet to the right of the crux. The climbing seemed really straightforward. It is extremely soft for the grade but barrels of fun! Jan 16, 2016
Britt
 
[Hide Comment] As of 10/23/2016, there is a wasps nest 3 feet left of the anchors. You don't have to stick your hand in their home for them to attack you. Cleaning anchors while being attacked by a colony of wasps is stressful and painful. I climbed this at sunset, it's likely they are more active during the day.
In the current condition, don't clean this if you're allergic to insect stings. Oct 24, 2016
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Oh boy. What a fantastic route. Look out for wasps on the lower section in warmer weather, though! Jan 28, 2018