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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: John Bragg, Mark Robinson, Bob Murray 1978
Page Views: 554 total · 40/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Jan 4, 2017
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

A beautiful line with thoughtful movement; a must-do for the grade!

Start same as P2 of Updraft/CCK (on the GT ledge), but head left towards a thin crack, which you'll follow to a no-hands stance in the sentry box. Stem your way out of the box and exit onto the steep face. Climb the pumpy face to a #2 horizontal, then move left towards the arete and easier ground.. Be careful mantling into the stem box, there might be a suspect flake or two. The top could use a scrubbing, but who really cares!

Location

The overhanging left wall of Updraft.

Protection

It's PG with c3s and small wires. Two .4s are nice. A WC superlight rock #1 fits like a puzzle piece to protect the stemming (good luck with anything else). A fixed nut at the top of the stem box has seen better days.

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
It is not R. Might have been R back in the days before micro stuff.
Definitely heads up though and the gear takes a good eye to get it right but it certainly can be protected well.
You're welcomed to contact me if you want specifics I've done it a few times and have a good memory when it comes to gear beta and such. Dec 14, 2017
Dean R
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dean R   Poughkeepsie, NY
Curious about the gear rating on this one - the description above says PG with C3s and small wires, while GunksApps gives R. Any opinions? Dec 14, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
Probably for the best. Full value now! Dec 3, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
I didn't do it Gabe!!! Someone stole it! Dec 3, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
Ha! That'll make it a bit more exciting for those leading it . But thanks for cleanin' up. Dec 3, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
There is no longer a fixed nut at the lip of the sentry box on this one. There is also no more fixed anchor. Dec 3, 2017

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