Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: John Bragg, Mark Robinson, Bob Murray 1978
Page Views: 831 total · 35/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Jan 4, 2017
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

A beautiful line with thoughtful movement; a must-do for the grade!

Start same as P2 of Updraft/CCK (on the GT ledge), but head left towards a thin crack, which you'll follow to a no-hands stance in the sentry box. Stem your way out of the box and exit onto the steep face. Climb the pumpy face to a #2 horizontal, then move left towards the arete and easier ground.. Be careful mantling into the stem box, there might be a suspect flake or two. The top could use a scrubbing, but who really cares!

Location

The overhanging left wall of Updraft.

Protection

It's PG with c3s and small wires. Two .4s are nice. A WC superlight rock #1 fits like a puzzle piece to protect the stemming (good luck with anything else). A fixed nut at the top of the stem box has seen better days.

Photos

Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
There is no longer a fixed nut at the lip of the sentry box on this one. There is also no more fixed anchor. Dec 3, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.11d
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.11d
Ha! That'll make it a bit more exciting for those leading it . But thanks for cleanin' up. Dec 3, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
I didn't do it Gabe!!! Someone stole it! Dec 3, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.11d
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.11d
Probably for the best. Full value now! Dec 3, 2017
Dean Rosenthal
Poughkeepsie, NY
 
Dean Rosenthal   Poughkeepsie, NY
 
Curious about the gear rating on this one - the description above says PG with C3s and small wires, while GunksApps gives R. Any opinions? Dec 14, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.11d
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.11d
It is not R. Might have been R back in the days before micro stuff.
Definitely heads up though and the gear takes a good eye to get it right but it certainly can be protected well.
You're welcomed to contact me if you want specifics I've done it a few times and have a good memory when it comes to gear beta and such. Dec 14, 2017
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.12a PG13
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.12a PG13
Excellent climbing and plenty of excitement; highly recommended.

I was able to protect the sentry box with a combination of BD micro nuts and DMM RPs. It did however take significant fiddling. Sep 17, 2018