| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
This Lonely View
|
Golden
> …
> Capitalist Crag
> Lower Capitalist Crag
|
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Apr 13, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Run out, spooky, crispy, odd movements and oddly bolted
|
|
●
West Crack
|
Boulder
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Whale's Tail
|
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Trad, TR
|
|
Mar 23, 2024 · Very easy and takes a lot of pro
|
|
●
West Dihedral
|
Boulder
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Whale's Tail
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad, TR
|
|
Mar 23, 2024 · Very easy and enjoyable
|
|
●
Mounty
|
Golden
> …
> Capitalist Crag
> Lower Capitalist Crag
|
68
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
|
Oct 22, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Pro is definitely tricky and runout. I was slightly off route though. I was too far right below the flake. Next go left earlier. The flake I treated as a lie back which I think is right but it’s definitely difficult for the grade. I went right to exit the seam but should have stayed straight to the pin. I never felt like I was on 5.6 terrain up high. I was on Aries which actually protects really well. It’s better to use the Aries anchor to set up TR.
|
|
●
March of Dimes
|
Boulder
> …
> Bastille
> Bastille - N Face
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 · 1 pitch. TR. Solid route, short and enjoyable. The start looks very intimidating but before you know it it’s over with. Look for the hoods, they may not be obvious. Pro looks to be somewhat tricky to place. Two bolt anchor at the top.
|
|
●
C'est La Vie
|
Boulder
> …
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - S Buttress
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 · 1 pitch. TR. Only did the first pitch which I was told goes at 5.9. I’m still nursing a A2 pulley injury and haven’t been climbing much but this didn’t present any real challenge at nice I figured out the beta. The start looks to be tricky to protect but once in the wall there is good movement and a few places to place pro. The crux has three bolts. Don’t follow the thin chalked up seam to the third bolt. Go right at the second bolt to gain the thin flake. It’s very secure for your hands but can smear easily. The undercling is great and there is a bailout jug at the very end. Very enjoyable route and high quality. Have confidence, move efficiently and this will go no problem.
|
|
●
East Slab
|
Boulder
> Boulder Canyon
> Dome
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
|
Oct 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Fun interesting route. I would next time bring up the second earlier at a more comfortable stance to do in two pitches. Good gear placement all the way until the crack runs out. I turned left and went up the ramp but still ran it out instead of going straight up to roof. The roof and finish are a bit difficult to protect and committing. You can get a decent left hand jam and place a .3 then get a high right foot up to grab the undercling.
|
|
●
Direct Start to Your Basic…
|
Boulder
> …
> Peanuts Walls
> Lower Peanuts
|
30
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
|
Sep 9, 2023 · TR. Mike led. Very easy but the lower part may be difficult to protect so just solo it and girth hitch the tree. Move to the left then up the obvious crack. Once you hit the ledge turn right and The start for Star Wars crack is just before the tree
|
|
●
West Crack (aka Star Wars)
|
Boulder
> …
> Peanuts Walls
> Lower Peanuts
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Sep 9, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. I led the first pitch. It is easy and straightforward along with good protection. I placed two pieces to start the last pitch but bitched out and Greg put it up. The jams felt solid and the feet weren’t bad. You can definitely lead it! Having an extra #1 will help. You can clip the stuck #2. Exiting the crack is a bit tricky but you can lie back. Just be smooth and move with purpose. After that it’s just awkward but easy as a flared off width. Beware of loose Boulders at the top but You can probably horn one of the Boulders as an anchor.
|
|
●
Pretty Woman
|
Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Wall of the '90s
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Jul 30, 2023 · TR. Flashed it on TR without much of a problem. This is an awesome route and waaay easier and shorter than Hot Stuff. This can be done without stick clipping despite the high first bolt and runout between the second bolt. You can place some mid size cams in the undercling before clipping the second bolt but it’s not all that necessary. You can clip the second bolt from a solid stance below.
Go further left than you think to gain the roof. There are good jugs so just commit and go for it.
I think it’s between the 5th and 6th bolt I went too far left. Go right instead.
The overhang roof is makes this a 4 star IMO and there are big jugs throughout. Move quickly and at the end there’s a big move to a left jug to finish the traverse. You can rest here to finish.
|
|
●
Hot Stuff
|
Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Wall of the '90s
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Jul 30, 2023 · TR. I thought was a sandbagged 10. Kevin’s guidebook has it as a 10c. I’d say 11a. It is long and sustained with two cruxes. Madi put up the route without much trouble. My first attempt I couldn’t get past the first crux at the big block in the middle of the route but worked it out on my second attempt via a left heel hook to a left crimp in the center of the block. Then stand up to reach the juggy ledge. The second crux is just below the anchor with very thin holds and slabby. I fell here as well. Pull on the anchor if need be because I did not see a good stance to clip in. This is a high quality route otherwise and a great training route.
|
|
●
Alone Time with my Banana
|
Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Wall of the '90s
|
|
167
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sport
|
|
Jul 30, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Interesting for a 5.6 but enjoyable and worth doing if you’re waiting to get on something else on the crag. It’s run out and I didn’t see too many spots to place gear. I placed a .4 in a horizontal crack before the steep section
|
|
●
Three Little Birds
|
Golden
> …
1
> C. Lower Tier
> C. Middle & W Walls
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
Jul 28, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Use small gear and bring a .2. The whole route can be led on gear
|
|
●
Buffalo Soldier
|
Golden
> …
1
> C. Lower Tier
> C. Middle & W Walls
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Jul 28, 2023 · TR. Failed the lead insight then got up on TR with falling twice. Stick clip the second bolt. Need to have better beta for my feet. Use the high right foot on the opposite face once you gain the left sloper. Then on the matching slopers reach far left for a great crimp. After that get high feet to the really good left crimp just below the roof. Right hand on the horn. There are three really good jugs to pull the roof. To gain the roof get your right foot out on a ok hold to open up space to get a high left foot on the horn. Then step up to a good right hand crimp. After that it’s easy 5.8 climbing to the anchor.
|
|
●
Don't Rock My Boat
|
Golden
> …
1
> C. Lower Tier
> B. Recessed Slab
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport 2 pitches
|
|
Jul 23, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Very fun and enjoyable with big belay ledge at the top of the first pitch. The second pitch is 4 star! So much fun
|
|
●
Buried Treasure
|
Boulder
> …
> Tonnere Tower
> Treasure Wall
|
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sport 2 pitches
|
|
Jul 21, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Only did the first pitch but need to go back and do the multi. Stem down low while smearing with left foot and using big hand holds on the right. Go left at the crux then traverse right to the great pocket. Commit and smear to get to the good holds above after that. You’ll be safe.
|
|
●
Twilight Time
|
Boulder
> …
> Tonnere Tower
> Treasure Wall
|
|
190
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Jul 21, 2023 · TR. Greg led. I slipped at around the third bolt cuz I wasn’t looking for the jug right above the third hanger. Enjoyable tough climb with a lot of smearing and foot jamming. Go for a high right hand at the crux to the left flake. Commit and move quickly and trust your feet.
|
|
●
Tree Line
|
Boulder
> …
> Tonnere Tower
> Treasure Wall
|
|
129
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Jul 21, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Fun and enjoyable short route. Thin feet and committing moves halfway through but stay in control and enjoy
|
|
●
Irie
|
Golden
> …
1
> C. Lower Tier
> A. E Wall
|
|
217
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Jul 16, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Very fun route with big positive holds. The most enjoyable of the three on this section. Make sure you use the big right side pull above the under cling to clip the high first bolt
|
|
●
Beauty for Ashes
|
Golden
> …
1
> C. Lower Tier
> A. E Wall
|
|
108
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Jul 16, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Stay left more than you think. Use the left side pull to clip the first bolt then move right. Small feet and hands can be heady but you’ll reach for a big jug then the route is very easy after that
|
|
●
The Burning Bush
|
Golden
> …
1
> C. Lower Tier
> A. E Wall
|
|
227
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Jul 16, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Fun, thin down below and really cruisy after that. You can take this to gain the belay ledge for the 2pitch 5.7
|
|
●
Vitamin-N
|
Golden
> …
> Capitalist Crag
> Lower Capitalist Crag
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
Jul 14, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. High quality route. At the start go further right then you think and stay low. Between the second and third bolt I think is the crux but there is a small somewhat hidden crimp that makes this easier. I used a .5 to protect the undercling and clipped the bolt after I made it to the left jug exiting the undercling. The movements after are great. Towards the top the hand holds are less obvious but there are great crimps
|
|
●
Wise Crack
|
Boulder
> …
1
> Surprising Crag
> W Face
|
|
56
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Jul 9, 2023 · TR. Not a good route. Avoid. But if you must do it the crux can be jammed for a move then reach left for a good crimp. You can also access the anchors by walking up to the left.
|
|
●
Choss Temple Pilots
|
Boulder
> …
1
> Surprising Crag
> S Face
|
|
401
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Jul 9, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Good route worth repeating and lapping. It forces you left but stay right and mostly on the bolt line. Skip the last bolt. There’s a left crimp at the anchor to keep you place on the ledge. 2.5 stars
|
|
●
Pound Town
|
Boulder
> Upper Dream Canyon
> Oceanic Wall
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
May 28, 2023 · Lead / Pinkpoint. Greg pre hung the draws. No gear needed
The crux is in between the 4th and 5th bolt i believe. It requires moving right laterally to a small crystal and crimp to clip the 5th bolt. Then move left to clip the next bolt. This is committing but doable so go for it. Move quickly here as there are bomber holds just above to save you.
|
|
●
Chocolate Nut Factory
|
Boulder
> Upper Dream Canyon
> Oceanic Wall
|
|
125
|
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trad, Sport
|
|
May 28, 2023 · Lead / Pinkpoint. Greg pre hung draws and placed a nut and directly above the nut a .5 along the shelf high up on the route. This is the crux since it is hard to find good feet to feel secure enough to place gear.
It’s a fun, enjoyable route and surprised it’s not rated higher. The top is very blank but smear and go for it as the jugs are there.
|
|
●
Wrinkles in Time
|
Boulder
> Upper Dream Canyon
> Dream Dome
|
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
May 28, 2023 · 1 pitch. TR. Greg led. You have to place a couple small pieces just above the start at the first good stance. The climbing is challenging but doable and route finding is fairly easy. I went right just above the tree but that felt tricky. The lie back was perhaps the crux. Scary but never at real risk of falling.
|
|
●
Three Little Birds
|
Golden
> …
1
> C. Lower Tier
> C. Middle & W Walls
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
May 13, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Go left at the roof. It’s a bit committing but the holds are there so go for it. After that the feet are thin and technical but I never felt a true risk of falling just moved slowly. You can place a .5. - .75 between the third and fourth bolt (?). Anchors are Mussy hooks but bring material to extend. On this climb I used two Alpine draws.
|
|
●
Old Pirates
|
Golden
> …
1
> C. Lower Tier
> C. Middle & W Walls
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
May 12, 2023 · TR. Couldn’t get past the crux after Madi put up the route. Stay left at the start and figure out how to stand up on a crunched up right foot to hit the right hand Gaston. Use the high left small crimp to help get higher. Greg bumped off the Gaston hold to the under cling. After that it’s a jug to the high right to gain the roof. After that, according to Madi it is 5.9 climbing. This is a 5.12-5.13 highest difficulty, not a sustained 5.11. Misleading rating typical of CCC
|
|
●
Wind Ridge
|
Boulder
> …
> Wind Tower
> Wind Tower - SW Face
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad 4 pitches
|
|
Nov 25, 2022 · Follow. Greg led. A couple awkward placements especially at the start of the route but overall cruiser with great flow. You can walk off the top of P2 or down climb off of P4 to the north to reach a short rap station
|
|
●
Panama Red
|
Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Canal Zone
|
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Aug 21, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. Lead, TR, then lead again. Had to hang at least once each time. Thin, technical, maybe one or two jugs but by no means from my experience a“jug haul” how it’s described here.
It is very well protected and no move is very heady, reachy, or committing. It’s a very high quality route.
Keep moving, take rests when you can and make sure you have good feet before each movement. You’ll have to smear a couple times and make a couple extra moves then you might think to get a better clipping stance.
|
|
●
Busch Gardens
|
Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Little Eiger
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Aug 7, 2022 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Thin, technical, edgy, a fun roof, and heady.
Had to leave a draw on the 8th hanger.
The first half is not bad and can you can move quickly. When you reach the red rock do not overthink the route finding, just keep moving. There is plenty of rest spots. The roof may not be the crux. It is actually pretty easy and you can get a good rest before taking it on: turn your left hip into the wall, bump your right and right hand up. Move to the right to gain solid footing and a right side pull to clip with your left hand.
|
|
●
High Tides
|
Golden
> …
> Capitalist Crag
> Lower Capitalist Crag
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Jul 8, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. Very fun, short route, great for running laps and training. Clip the second bolt left handed but stretched out with a right hand on a very positive hold in the crack. Then traverse left, high right foot and your home free the rest of the way.
|
|
●
Five Finger Discount
|
Golden
> …
> Capitalist Crag
> Lower Capitalist Crag
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Nov 8, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. First half is very easy and the roof portion is fun with 5.9-10 moves. The second half of the route is tricky and not very enjoyable climbing. The mantle is very committing and sketchy if you fail. After that it becomes very reachy with not so great feet or hand holds with potential to deck on the ledge below. This could be more fun once the beta is dialed but all in all not worth repeating.
|
|
●
Power Trip
|
Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Anarchy Wall
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Oct 29, 2021 · TR. Need to get stronger at slopers and pinches. Also need to be more efficient through the first three bolts and figure out beta for the moves to the anchors. It can go
|
|
●
Hanging Judge
|
Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Wall of Justice
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Sep 23, 2021 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Got up this in two attempts. It is heady but fun movements and tests your endurance. The last couple moves for the anchor are not great when pumped but the right heel hook helps tremendously. The last perma-draw is a difficult one so practice clipping left handed with gate facing away from you and floating in space.
|
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