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Elevation: 6,400 ft
GPS: 39.92885, -105.28656
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 82,228 total · 373/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 18, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

There are two smaller, N facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls - Upper and Lower. This division covers the Lower Peanuts Wall for organizational purposes. Here you will find routes from 1-3 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. This crag has an advantage of shade in the summer heat. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Your Basic Lieback, 5.6; Star Wars, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts (opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Blows Against the Empire, 5.11a; Forbidden Planet, 5.11 a/b; Home Free, 5.11b, & Just Another Girl's Climb, 5.12a/b s.

The left side of the crag is likely the terrain for the seekers of the obscure or runout. Few climbers travel this side of the crag.

Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.

Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.

Getting There Suggest change

There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts.

The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.

43 Total Climbs

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Location: Lower Peanuts Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Peanuts

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 198
Your Basic Lieback
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 131
Dihedral
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 515
West Crack (aka Star Wars)
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 74
Cornered, straight up variation
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 210
Peanuts
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 62
Blows Against the Empire
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 59
Forbidden Planet
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 52
Scorpions
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
 4
The Empire Strikes Back
Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 21
Young, Blonde, and Easy
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 26
Criller
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Just Another Girl's Climb
Trad, Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of…
Trad, TR
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
 6
The Sacred and the Profane
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 8
Black Pearl
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Your Basic Lieback
 198
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Dihedral
 131
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
West Crack (aka Star Wars)
 515
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Cornered, straight up varia…
 74
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Peanuts
 210
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Blows Against the Empire
 62
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Forbidden Planet
 59
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Scorpions
 52
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
The Empire Strikes Back
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X Trad, TR
Young, Blonde, and Easy
 21
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Criller
 26
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Just Another Girl's Climb
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospe…
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, TR
The Sacred and the Profane
 6
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R Sport
Black Pearl
 8
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Peanuts »

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