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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Mike Brooks (free solo)
Page Views: 117 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This climb is a flake and crack system in an open book dihedral. The line is attractive, but short and tweaky. The initial section of the route does indeed look like a 30' tall Aspen Leaf.

Aspenleaf Dihedral is directly above the route The Scared and the Profane. Few climbers would approach the route by this pitch, so consider getting there by going up and right of Blows Against the Empire (5.11) or Peanuts (5.9) or down and left of Just Another Girl's Climb (5.12) or Your Basic Lieback (5.6), or a scramble to the right of Your Basic Lieback (5.Easy).

Set a belay on the ledge from gear or the bolt anchors above Just Another Girl's Climb (up and right of Aspenleaf's start).

Place a few small pieces on the right side of the aspen leaf and step up off of the ledge into the slightly overhanging route. This is the first crux (balancy 5.10). Continue up and left, crossing the dihedral at the leaf's tip to flakes on the left. Place gear whenever possible, as there will be places where it is not so good. A fall should be plenty safe if this is considered. From the top of the leaf, climb easier rock (lower angle) up and left near a crack to reach a ledge with a tree and belay.

From the belay, one can scramble up to the summit ridge or move over and finish on Wired. To descend, get to the bolt-anchors of Forbidden Planet and rap down to the starting ledge, and then from the bolt anchors of Just Another Girl's Climb to the ground.

Better yet, do Forbidden Planet too - it's a good route and you are up there anyway.

Protection

Thin gear behind, with a few pieces in behind some potentially breakable rock. Overall, the route is safe, but you can not count on every piece, so a lot of pumpy gear should be placed if you are not solid at the grade. Medium HB offsets were overhead crux pro for me.

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