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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Mike Brooks and Todd Montgomery
Page Views: 127 total, 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Lucas on Jul 26, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route starts out above a cut off stump and is 5.8 for the first half, this section is R and takes small RPs behind a flake that may expand. Head for a ledge with a small bush. The second section goes right of the bush. I ended up going right and clipping a pin on Easter Island, then going right to clip a bolt and back cleaned the pin. Now, head straight up to the notch in the roof; this is the 5.10 section. Find a pin and some gear and power through the roof. The final 20 feet are on lichen-covered 5.6 find your own way up the lichen.

Rossiter's book says this is a two pitch route, but it sure is fun in one pitch. The book says to belay at the tree after the 5.8 where you will find a pin.

Location

This route is at the far northeast end of Lower Peanuts. Find the cut off stump and the notch in the roof up above.

Protection

The route uses a standard rack, no big gear. Focus on the #1 BD cam and below, take your small nuts. The anchor I had was suspect, so I had to use long runners to use more than one loose block.

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Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.10b R
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.10b R
I thought this was a really fun route, probably worth three stars if not for the choss band (plenty solid) and the circuitous-wandering nature of the line. The bottom is definitely 5.8R, but that's significantly below the grade, so I think it's more of a PG-13 route, Jalapeño spicy. Tricky but good gear, a little spaced here and there. I found Loweballs to be very useful and inspiring in many of the thin cracks and flakes. Aaron's description sums it up well, I would probably not use the flexing, suspect KB on Easter Island next time as there is a good nut ~3' below and the single bolt is 6' directly L. of this pin causing some awkward drag with both clipped even with long slings. Definitely bring at least a half dozen shoulder slings. Exciting, technically sustained climbing past the bolt and out the notch. Well worth seeking out, pretty classic Eldo style. An unknown gem of a line, nice work, Mike! May 12, 2013