Type: Trad, 150 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Mike Brooks and Todd Montgomery
Page Views: 154 total · 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Lucas on Jul 26, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route starts out above a cut off stump and is 5.8 for the first half, this section is R and takes small RPs behind a flake that may expand. Head for a ledge with a small bush. The second section goes right of the bush. I ended up going right and clipping a pin on Easter Island, then going right to clip a bolt and back cleaned the pin. Now, head straight up to the notch in the roof; this is the 5.10 section. Find a pin and some gear and power through the roof. The final 20 feet are on lichen-covered 5.6 find your own way up the lichen.

Rossiter's book says this is a two pitch route, but it sure is fun in one pitch. The book says to belay at the tree after the 5.8 where you will find a pin.

Location

This route is at the far northeast end of Lower Peanuts. Find the cut off stump and the notch in the roof up above.

Protection

The route uses a standard rack, no big gear. Focus on the #1 BD cam and below, take your small nuts. The anchor I had was suspect, so I had to use long runners to use more than one loose block.

Photos

- No Photos -
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.10b R
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.10b R
I thought this was a really fun route, probably worth three stars if not for the choss band (plenty solid) and the circuitous-wandering nature of the line. The bottom is definitely 5.8R, but that's significantly below the grade, so I think it's more of a PG-13 route, JalapeƱo spicy. Tricky but good gear, a little spaced here and there. I found Loweballs to be very useful and inspiring in many of the thin cracks and flakes. Aaron's description sums it up well, I would probably not use the flexing, suspect KB on Easter Island next time as there is a good nut ~3' below and the single bolt is 6' directly L. of this pin causing some awkward drag with both clipped even with long slings. Definitely bring at least a half dozen shoulder slings. Exciting, technically sustained climbing past the bolt and out the notch. Well worth seeking out, pretty classic Eldo style. An unknown gem of a line, nice work, Mike! May 12, 2013