Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,296 total, 15/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Aug 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Young, Blonde, and Easy is a terrific mixed route left of The Shield, just about where the trail arrives at Lower Peanuts. Spot a couple of fixed pins along a short, very thin crack about 45 feet up. This is the start of the hard climbing. Make your way to the first knifeblade (not hard and reasonably protected), back up the KB if possible, and head up the thin flake crack, placing reasonably good small RPs and tiny wires. At the top of the crack, you can clip a better pin and soon a bolt. A desperate mantel gains a sloping stance. Puzzle your way up a shallow corner past another bolt and pin to reach the anchor. Lower/rappel.

Despite the pins and bolts, this feels very much like a typical Eldo trad lead. The cruxes are puzzling, but if you're good on your feet you may be able to hang out and decipher the moves. On the other hand, this is also one of those slabby climbs that manages to leave your whole body feeling worked.

Location

Start just left of where the trail meets Lower Peanuts Wall.

Protection

QDs, long slings to reduce rope drag at the start, RPs and tiny wired nuts, a small selection of cams for the start and finish. A purple/black Alien or equivalent small piece is nice for the final hard move below the anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.11b PG13
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.11b PG13
The position of the first bolt is poor. Onsight, you're forced with a mental dilemma of either clipping the bolt or sending the crux as you can't have both unless you're very strong. The bolt should be a foot lower and left.

Great climbing with some cool movement and good mental edge. Aug 26, 2013
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
This is a badass climb! It protects quite well once you make it past the initial entry moves and get a few good RPs placed.

The initial climbing to the first pin is easy. Before clipping the first pin, I plugged a #0.75 Camalot deep into the hollow flake on the right. You can either backclean the .75 or not, depending on your faith in the flake's strength. I would also recommend putting a screamer on that first pin if you have one. From here, make one mid-5.10 move past the 1st pin (mental crux). At this point, you have pretty good feet and are able to plug in 2 good RPs from the same stance. The climbing is PG from here on! Clip a few pins, place some RPs, get stoked when you reach two new, fatty bolts. At the top, clip one more pin, place a nut and/or black Alien, and you're finished.

A heady route for sure, but one I highly recommend if you like Eldo weirdness and are good at placing small gear. The actual climbing felt only 10d/11a-ish to me. Also, thanks to the person that put those new bolts in! Aug 11, 2013