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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Jim Ericson, solo 1980
Page Views: 4,991 total, 28/month
Shared By: Frances Fierst on May 27, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


88 Opinions

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Dihedral is also posted on this site as Cornered. Climb Your Basic Lieback and set up a belay. There is a rap station to your left, but it is easier to stay near the recess where Dihedral, Wired, and Forbidden Planet begin (see Rossiter's sketch on page 136 of his new guide).

Climb through a short rotten section, then head into the obvious dihedral and cut left and climb around the left side of a positive flake. Going straight up the steep finger crack is solid 5.9 (see the description for Cornered). Once on top of the ramp, move up and right to the anchor on top of Forbidden Planet.

Rap down and slightly left on a rotten band to another rap station. One more rap with a 60 meter rope gets you to the ground (just barely).

Rossiter lists this climb as a 5.9-, but his sketch shows the flake variation as 5.7. I led it and I believe the 5.7 rating shown in the sketch. Linked with Your Basic Lieback, this makes for high quality moderate climb, as well as a great warm up for Star Wars.

Protection

A standard Eldo rack. Cams in the finger to hand sizes.

Photos

a Ball
Boulder, CO
 
a Ball   Boulder, CO
 
With 1 70m rope, you can rap from the Forbidden Planet anchor all the way to the base of Your Basic Lieback aka "Star Wars ledge". Jul 30, 2015
Count Chockula
Littleton, CO
 
Count Chockula   Littleton, CO
 
Following the angling crux flake left doesn't even come close to .9. If we're looking to split hairs, I'd say .7+. The laybacks are bomber and the feet are all there. Fun pitch. Oct 4, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Ben, FWIW, there are 2 versions to finish this. To the right feels easier, 5.7. To the left is harder and probably 9-, briefly. Sep 15, 2010
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.9-
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.9-
7?
True that the crux is short, but it's harder than most Eldo 8s. I challenge you to list 5.7s at Eldo that are harder or on par with this. Sep 14, 2010
Matt Bolt
Lakewood
Matt Bolt   Lakewood
Did this as a second pitch to YBL. Very high quality. Definitely would have felt like 5.9 if you try to place during the crux. Also, there is a little bulge above the anchors at the top that you can continue up and add another 20 feet to the climb (this ends right where Star Wars ends). Aug 6, 2009
Rob Hibit
Denver, CO
5.8- PG13
Rob Hibit   Denver, CO
5.8- PG13
Nice Climb! Great Pro on the climb. I think the crux was 5.8- but I placed pro during the moves so it was probably harder than it needed to be. If you move through the crux without placing gear it is probably easier. Jun 8, 2009
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
This really should be considered the second pitch of Basic Lieback. Done from the ground this route is a 3-pitch classic.

I think its something in between 7 and 9-. My partner placed a cam under the flake and I felt very postive until I had to retrieve it.... May 6, 2008
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
  5.7+
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
  5.7+
I really liked this route. Two #2 Camalots protected the crux nicely, the rest of the route ate nuts. If you set up a belay at the crack with the rope and sit back on the ridge you can get some great pics of your partner (see photo). Look up about 20 feet for the glue-ins on top of Forbidden Planet (marked) and you can rap to the West a full 60M with rope stretch. We had a shortish 60M rope and had to downclimb 5 feet on very easy ground. Every ledge we were on was full of death blocks, wear a helmet! Oct 26, 2007
I give it a 7. If you keep moving through the crux and stay focused, it's a cakewalk. Hang around and place gear on it, you just sandbagged yourself. I'll give that 9 variation an 8+ at best, there are obscure but good feet all the way up it. All in all, it's a great intro to 5.7 Eldo climbing. Oct 22, 2007
Merlin
Grand Junction
  5.8-
Merlin   Grand Junction
  5.8-
I'm just breaking into 5.7+/5.8 routes this summer and after a ton of climbing in this range over the last couple months I would say this is harder than other sevens I've been on. It felt harder than Reggae and easier than the crux on Long John Wall so I think a 5.8 might be in line.

The route protects superbly though and you can plug a couple #2 or #3 C4s at the start of the flake then go for it. The hands are bomber and once you start moving the crux is over before you know it.

A 60 Meter will just get you back down to the ledge between Your Basic Lieback and Star Wars if you follow the line down through the trees. Make sure to knot your ropes though. Apr 20, 2007
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
  5.7+
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
  5.7+
The flake offers very secure hand jams with a bumpy face below for delicate footwork, followed by a move or two of strong but secure liebacking. The whole pitch protects very well except for maybe the last move or two. It's a seven (maybe a hard seven).

GEAR BETA: the dihedral prior to the flake eats up small to midsize nuts and has good stances. The scary looking triangular block in the right wall seems very secure. A yellow Alien goes in the corner just below the flake, and you can get a #2 Camalot followed by a #3 Camalot in under the flake. May 7, 2006
Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
Did this route today and found that the bolts up and right of the top of the route will give you a one rope rap with a 60m rope to the ledge at the base of Your Basic Lieback. Our rope was about two feet off the deck. Sep 17, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
  5.8
George Bell   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I led this recently and I don't think it is 5.7. The crux is the last 5 feet, you can put in a #2-#3 Camalot from the undercling and then go for it. Don't try to place anything after this or it will feel like 5.9 for sure (it's a short fall anyway). Fun pitch, no matter exactly what it's rated. Jun 16, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.7
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.7
Not even close to 5.9. Jun 14, 2003
Interesting that this climb was put in the database as a 5.7. If you look it up in the Rossiter book he has the left variation (this description) going left of the flake at 5.9-. If you look at the topo it is shown as 5.7.

This is a common issue in the Rossiter guide, the descriptions are rated higher than the topos. But which one is right then?

I lead it a couple of weeks ago and it is not 5.7. It felt 5.9ish to me. Grant it the tough part is not long but still... Maybe a really hard 5.8? Certainly harder then Reggea...

The "straight up" variation is 5.9 and requires, at least the way I did it, some pretty wide stemming to be able to free at least one hand.

All in all fun pitch either way.

Cheers, WT Jun 14, 2003