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Routes in Lower Peanuts
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Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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B.A.T.E. Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Black Pearl S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Criller T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Direct Start to Your Basic Layback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Faith, Hope, and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Nova (aka Jawa?) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Rapa Nui (Easter Island) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Star Track T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
Fixed Hardware
(3) |
| FA: | Steve Dieckhoff, Kathy Lenz |
| Page Views: | 1,925 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Dougald MacDonald on Jul 26, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Although it is very short, this pitch is action-packed and excellent. Air Guitar climbs a clean face above Peanuts, Blows Against the Empire or Scorpion. Belay at the bolt anchor above Scorpion and the new 5.13 that joins Scorpion. (Using the bolts below for an upward anchor, you can sit on the relatively comfortable ramp and avoid the hanging belay.) The first bolt is just above the ramp, off to the left. Climb up a shallow arete with ever-increasing difficulty. The last move is a real "you gotta believe" treat! Belay off a tree and wires right above the pitch. Or, either 1) place a directional and move off left to belay before the downclimb descent or 2) place a directional and move up right to belay at a two-pin anchor for a rappel descent or to carry on to the base of Forbidden Planet.
Photos
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