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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: [C. Harrison & C. Lemke, 1981]
Page Views: 255 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is difficult to find by following the description in the guidebooks, but is obvious once you are there and see it. From the base of the [Lower] Peanuts Wall, below Your Basic Lieback and Star Wars, among others, look uphill and to your right. You will see a small tower of rock with a sharp lightning-bolt finger-crack. going up, to the right, then up again, with the crack getting wider as you climb upwards. It is a good lead or fun TR. Spots are thin and cruxy, but the route is not hard at its grade. The route is generally chalked.

Protection

Standard rack with good nuts and small to medium TCUs at the crux.

Photos

James Rein
  5.9
James Rein  
  5.9
This is a really fun route. However, to put this on the same playing field as 5.10 Crack, Grandmother's Challenge, Blind Faith, or Darkness Till Dawn is joke. I would say 5.9+, and that feels generous. PG Sep 10, 2017
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.10b/c
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.10b/c
I liked this little climb! Short but full value and protects well. Good fun! Jun 30, 2015
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
  5.10c
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
  5.10c
Short and very physical climb. Got on it because the Levin guidebook rates it 10b. I'd say it is definitely solid/hard 10. Not at all PG-13, gear is solid the whole way. Jun 20, 2015
Nathaniel Dray
Fort Collins
  5.10
Nathaniel Dray   Fort Collins
  5.10
I would recommend pre-clipping an extendable draw onto a 0.75 cam for the traverse. Fiddling around trying to hook the cam sling deep in that crack is hard. Save some trouble and have it clipped, ready to extend. Oct 7, 2014
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.10b/c
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.10b/c
Plenty of gear on this one and the swing fall is no problem. WARNING GEAR BETA: Green Alien, red C3, red #1 C4 in initial creck, yellow #2 C4 / green #0.75 C4 at horizontal jug, blue #3 C4 past the hand jam (or other possibilities on traverse), red or yellow C4 in top cracks, optional green C4 protects the second above the moves. There's a good boulder thread for TR without going all the way up to the Star Wars ledge/tree. Aug 8, 2012
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
  5.10
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
  5.10
There is a bomber 0.75 placement back in the crack to use if you don't have the #4. The spot for the #4 seemed kinda hollow anyhow. Jun 18, 2012
Tombo
Boulder
  5.10+
Tombo   Boulder
  5.10+
I thought this climbed way harder then it looked and its grade, maybe it's because I'm short, old and fat. There isn't another 10b in the canyon that has shut me down like this one. I thought is was really technical down low with strenuous gear placements, to bomber hands if all the gas wasn't spent on the first 10 feet. Anyway, I'm going to loose 10 lbs and try again.

Anyone know the rating if you climb in from the left as opposed to straight up? Oct 16, 2011
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
  5.10 PG13
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
  5.10 PG13
Awesome link up to Star Wars or any other climb up there. Didn't know what it was, but I am glad I did it! Jun 21, 2007
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.10b PG13
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.10b PG13
Finally! Always wondered what this one was called. Next time I won't stick all the gear where my fingers need to go...and I'll bring a #4 cam for the diagonal band. All and all--good fun! And it DOES make for a good link-up with Star Wars, to be sure. Jun 8, 2006
Brent Roaten
Anchorage, AK
 
Brent Roaten   Anchorage, AK
 
Fun linkup to Star Wars. #6 BD stopper, blue Alien, #2 Camalot, #3 Camalot for the traverse, and a #1 Camalot for the final paired cracks. Sep 5, 2005
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
A #3.5 Camalot works good for protecting the band traverse; otherwise, one can climb the band unprotected and risk a swinging fall. Jul 23, 2002
This is a short, but fun and demanding lead. Four pieces of pro will get you through it, which include a small wire (3?), [a couple of] medium and a large cam (not sure exact size). I wasn't psyched about the direction of the cam placement at the crux, about 15/18 ft up, so I stuck two in (a 6&7 [Trango size])... The climb goes straight up the finger crack, then right into an open, diagonal band (where you need the large cam). (There's also a variation that follows a crack from the left into the crux). Decent feet on the right when you're pushing past the band. Once through that traverse there's plenty of space to rest, then a pair or cracks on top that are easier to negotiate. This route is a bit like a 10a boulder problem sitting on top of a highball V1... fun! Jul 22, 2002