Fickle Finger of Eight
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.5 from 24 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Carl Lemke, solo, 1981 |
Page Views: | 1,092 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on May 3, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is yet another obscure little route....
If you seek this climb, find it on the far ight side of Lower Peanuts. It is right of Star Wars and just right of Home Free. It is squeezed between Off the Cuff and Sickle. It has a pleasant if brief, 5.8, crux dihedral.
This climb starts up in a short, thinnish, left-facing dihedral just right of a wide cleft (10") called Off the Cuff. Small gear, a bit of stemming, and liebacking and you're through the crux. You can continue upward in a chimney with an interesting but easy roof move. Find a belay. Exit easily right to 3rd class terrain & descend. There is lichen and a bit of loose rock here.
I found these notes on this route as I was reminiscing about climbing with a young man, Ryan, a son of a good friend of mine, who is no longer with us in body. It was his first outdoor climbing day.
If you seek this climb, find it on the far ight side of Lower Peanuts. It is right of Star Wars and just right of Home Free. It is squeezed between Off the Cuff and Sickle. It has a pleasant if brief, 5.8, crux dihedral.
This climb starts up in a short, thinnish, left-facing dihedral just right of a wide cleft (10") called Off the Cuff. Small gear, a bit of stemming, and liebacking and you're through the crux. You can continue upward in a chimney with an interesting but easy roof move. Find a belay. Exit easily right to 3rd class terrain & descend. There is lichen and a bit of loose rock here.
I found these notes on this route as I was reminiscing about climbing with a young man, Ryan, a son of a good friend of mine, who is no longer with us in body. It was his first outdoor climbing day.
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