Type: Trad, 90 ft Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Not sure
Page Views: 2,475 total · 13/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Aug 31, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a worthy route. It does not merit a serious rating if your nutcraft is good.

Start as for Peanuts. Where that route cuts left at the overhang, head straight up the shallow dihedral/finger crack above. A green Alien in a placement below a pin adds to the comfort level. Clip a bolt and hoist yourself into a second dihedral/groove with another bolt at its top. More climbing up and left, then back right to clip the anchor.

Protection

Standard rack, with Aliens.

Photos

Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
Did this recently and thought it was a great route, and relatively well protected too. This really is THE line started by Peanuts, and it seems as if Peanuts should be considered a variation to this route, not vice-versa. Nuts and Aliens and the fixed gear present can sew it up about as well as your standard Eldo route; and all of the hard moves have fixed pro right where you need it. Sep 26, 2003
'S' only in the sense that it could be dangerous if gear blows. The piton looks suspect and the gear below it (green alien in the description above... I got a stopper which frees up the hold) is in a somewhat hollowish sounding flake. Steeper and pumpier than it looks. Jul 19, 2004
Bob Rotert
  5.11b
Bob Rotert  
  5.11b
A worthy route and one of my favorite routes on Peanuts. Good climbing with a steep and pumpy crux. Doing this and linking it with Forbidden Planet on upper wall of Lower Peanuts makes for good outing on Lower Peanuts. Oct 9, 2005
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
There is a loose flake in the dihedral/groove at the top of this route. So be careful. Apr 30, 2008
Richard Radcliffe
Louisville, CO
 
Richard Radcliffe   Louisville, CO
 
The loose flake mentioned by Taylor is no longer there. I was almost through the dihedral crux and I suddenly found myself airborne along with the suspect flake. Nobody was hurt and my partner and I both think that the modification didn't really change the climb. Jun 12, 2011
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
A good route, and I was more nervous going into it than I should have been. It is a safe route as long as the pin holds (but you probably won't be falling onto it).

Apparently I went the wrong way at the first bolt and climbed straight up the edgy face to the left of the bolt, instead of staying in the shallow dihedral to the right. I would say it's about 5.11 still, but if you think that is the route, the bolt placements seem really goofy, and the second bolt is really hard to clip. Aug 26, 2011
This thing is great. It's a great and long pitch if you climb it straight up into Air Guitar. I climbed it many times before my brother asked me if the giant flake you pull into through the crux made me nervous. He pointed out it was a bit rattly to me, and now I'm a little more paranoid about it. Sep 6, 2011
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11b/c
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.11b/c
The climb is awesome up until the crux. I myself didn't enjoy the crux, but maybe that's cause I was trying to stay in the corner. Aug 12, 2013
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
The bolts are in terrible locations and make the crux avoiding tangling the rope in your feet and clipping. Jul 9, 2014
Moritz B.  
 
Clipping the first bolt is extremely pumpy. There are fixed draws on it right now. The first draw looks good. The second one has a sharp rope-end biner. Be careful. Jul 6, 2015
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11b
Pretty soft for the 11b and PG-13 rating.... I wouldn't be too concerned with the PG-13 tag. This thing protects very well in my opinion. I'm not even sure where there would be cause for concern? Anyway, this is a classic pitch on good stone with a variety of movement! Sep 22, 2015