Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Charlie Fowler, Dan McGee, Marc Hirt, 1987
Page Views: 849 total · 8/month
Shared By: Greg D on Jun 22, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Walk up the ramp 12 feet. Clip the first bolt. Do technical reachy moves to gain the only jug (first crux). Clip the hidden pin on the ledge and mantel up. Clip another bolt and gun for the top on crimps and small feet (second crux).

This route is very short (30 feet) but packs a punch for a short climb. Not a destination climb but worth doing if you are in the area.

Easy Off has roughly the same start but exits left on the ledge part way up the route.

Location

This is on the far left side of Lower Peanuts. The descent is painfully obvious. Scramble off east to get back down.

Protection

Two bolts and one hidden fixed pin. 1 to 3 inch cams for the anchor on top.

Photos

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fossana
leeds, ut
fossana   leeds, ut
I found both the moves off the ramp and after the second ramp to be reachy (I'm 5'6"). Levin's guide calls this 10b, but I found it way more desperate than Blows Against the Empire (10d in the book). Sep 15, 2012
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
Pleasantly surprised by this one, and the rock was better/cleaner than it looked from the ground. May 12, 2013