Type: Trad
FA: Cornered (5.9-), going left at flake undercling:Jim Erickson
Page Views: 3,087 total · 14/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Apr 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Climb Your Basic Lieback (excellent short 5.6) and traverse to bolt belay ....climb up past rotten section into steepening dihedral corner that gets steep fingers up to a large flake.

The original route, Cornered or Dihedral, goes left at the undercling on the flake.....straight up variation goes up the steep but fun finger crack right of the flake in the corner (solid 5.9) to a big ramp/ledge with 2 bolt belay up and right.

Rappel 80 feet to bolt belay and 100 feet from there to ground...could easily be done as 1 long and fun pitch.

Protection

Smaller cams....double bolt anchor for both anchors.

Photos

Matt Bauman
  5.9
Matt Bauman  
  5.9
This straight up version FA was Richard Rossiter in 1980, the original route Cornered or Dihedral (as it is renamed in the new guide book) goes left at large flake at top of dihedral, FA Erickson, solo 1978......I almost wussed out and went left at the beautiful undercling flake but the steep crack up the right side of the flake sucked me in....FUN. Jan 1, 2001
Nice climb. Another way of descending: from the sloping ledge at the top, boulder up to the next ledge, then walk off toward the gully between Upper and Lower Peanuts. Jan 1, 2001
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Nice route straight up or undercling left. Nice entertainment just right on Forbidden Planet 11a. Dec 6, 2001
Ped
Ped  
I went straight up the Cornered variation and found it to be great fun. I think this is solid 5.9 as well. It protects well and makes a great finish to Your Basic Lieback. Jul 26, 2006
Kat A
Boulder, CO
Kat A   Boulder, CO
Felt like solid Eldo 5.9 to me. Very nice thin crack, with good pro available. May 18, 2008
Eric Haye
Boulder
Eric Haye   Boulder
Do the 5.9 section. Very fun and protects great. Aug 22, 2011
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
I managed to get a red C3 stuck right around the cruxy bit. I tried to get it out on rappel, but it thwarted all of my efforts. If someone gets it out, I would be willing to meet up and trade some beers for it, but it is in there quite solidly. So, in the mean time, there is a solid piece of gear that you clip as you pull over the flake/roof! Aug 18, 2014
Connor Newman
Denver, CO
  5.9
Connor Newman   Denver, CO
  5.9
Just an FYI, after topping out this route, you can rap back to the base of Your Basic Lieback (which my partner and I used to get to this one) with a 70m. This is much quicker than either topping out and descending as for Star Wars, or doing 2 raps back to the base of the wall as is shown in the Levin guide. Also, sorry James, but the C3 was gone already. Sep 22, 2014