Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: M. Schlauch, C. Ruckgaber, E. Johnson. 2001
Page Views: 128 total · 2/month
Shared By: Wayne Crill on Jun 6, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a worthwhile and enjoyable climb with interesting and varied climbing and a little spice.

Climb the weakness down low for 40' to access a ledge system with some tottering choss below the obvious, left-facing flake. Negotiate through the choss past flakes and back to good rock via cracks to fun laybacking up the flake. At the top of the flake, pull the overlap up and right following a finger crack. This is exciting exposed climbing that is somewhat sustained and tricky to protect at first. It is jalapeƱo spicy, maybe more PG than PG-13? Fun continually interesting climbing up and right takes you to the anchors on Peanuts. There is quite a bit of lichen, since this is not well-trodden, but it is well worthwhile and recommended if you are in the area and/or enjoy the road less traveled.

Location

This route is a variation to Left Side (10 R), which climbs the obvious flake forming a left-facing corner with a wide slot, right of The Shield. Atop the flake where Left Side traverses left, surmount the overlap via a finger crack and move up and left across the face to the anchors on Peanuts.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack, maybe extra finger-size. Levin says to 3" with optional 4", but the wide flake has small pieces in the back, and I never wanted anything larger than a #2 Camalot.

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