Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Andrea Azoff, Charlie Fowler, 1987
Page Views: 327 total · 2/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Here is a great outing for the Lower Peanuts Wall: Girl's Climb to Forbidden Planet. Begin Girl's Climb in the left facing dihedral uphill from Peanuts (trad 5.8). Cop a rest at the ledge and get a reachy clip over the roof from here. For me, pulling the roof was the crux, done on thin edges with disappearing feet, this route is very similar in character to Private Idaho at Devil's Head. The rest of Girl's Climb entails largely good edges with long runs between bolts, but the climbing never reaches beyond modedrate 5.11 with some high steps on a vertical wall. Excellent stone, sparse pro (all bolts), and good climbing. From the belay you can check out Dale Goddard's classic The Sacred and The Profane. Scramble right into a corner for the belay below Forbidden Planet.

Protection

Four draws and a rope.

Photos

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Cedar Wright  
 
Quality route that gets lots of shade. A few tips: Bring a bit of gear to place at the ledge before you clip the bolt...the clipping hold is a bit suspect. I imagine that if you are under 5.7 or so, it may be impossible to clip the bolt without a mini-stick clip. I soloed up the 5.6 and then found a 0.75 and 1 Camalot amongst the shattered rock on the ledge, and I actually put two draws on the first bolt, because I watched a draw come unclipped in the gym recently, and if it came unclipped here... it would be a day ender.
The movement is really technical and engaging, and I actually found there to be three distinct cruxes all about the same in difficulty and each of them unique... the second crux is harder if you are short but possible as proven by my wife after some beta sussing. The final moves to the anchor are spicy. I would call this route excellent and totally worth getting on. The anchors are actually to the right and hidden in a corner. I'm pretty sure you could also climb the 5.6 to the right and then traverse the ledge to put this on top rope, but if you are a reasonably solid 5.11 climber... just go for it. They don't bolt them like they used to... no fluff bolts here. Oct 27, 2014