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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: J. Erikson, H. Barber, 1973
Page Views: 5,826 total, 30/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

On the Northwest Face of Lower Peanuts Wall, locate a few dead trees leaning against the lower section. Just down and left from these is a left-leaning ramp that can be scrambled to a good ledge, some 70' from the ground. Move down and left on this ledge until a shallow, left-facing dihedral, which curls right to become a flake-roof. A crack about 10' right of there goes up to intersect the dihedral where it bends to the right to become the afore mentioned roof. This crack is the start of Peanuts.

From this position, a few bolted routes are visible. To the right you can see The Scared and the Profane (5.13) and Just Another Girl's Climb (5.12), some distance down and to the left, Blows Against the Empire (5.11) is visible.

Start up the crack, arching left to follow it to the intersection of the dihedral and roof. Place gear and step left across the overhang, going a few moves further left through underclings before getting gear again. This is the crux. Once a vertical crack is available, begin moving up again until a good ledge is reached.

Go up and right on the ledge to place gear or belay on bolts. Rap from the fixed station or finish on Forbidden Planet (5.10d, sport) Wired (5.9) or Dihedral (5.9-). There is a new fixed anchor at the top of the vertical crack, so there is no need go right across the ledge system to get down. It's 100 feet or a little less to the ground from the anchor.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 2".

The crux pro is reasonable but not at your chest. As such, this route is safe but not a great route to press your level on.
Keith W
  5.9
Keith W  
  5.9
This is a great pitch. I love the movement on this climb. The finger crack traverse is exciting and well-protected. I thought the short, angling, finger crack right below the chains was the crux as well, but there are great locks and perfect feet that you just have to commit to! Do this pitch! You won't regret it.... Aug 21, 2017
Tricky little climb! Quite fun, and in the end pretty fair for the grade. Neat swinging around left and then finding the way up that is hidden from below. Jan 17, 2017
cslice
Longmont, CO
cslice   Longmont, CO
All the moves are there, but I definitely found this a hard onsight. The gear is good but quite thin. I don't like swinging falls on C3s. I found Blind Faith and Handcracker much easier even though they are in the 10 range, but...welcome to Eldo. Jul 3, 2014
Connor Newman
Reno, NV
  5.9+
Connor Newman   Reno, NV
  5.9+
Awesome route, one of the best pitches at its grade in Eldo, I would say, despite the lackluster start. Yesterday when I did this we couldn't get out an old #1 Friend I placed after the crux and below the pin. It's a piece I've had for a while and would love to get it back. If any one gets it out, there's a pitcher from the Southern Sun in it for you. My cell number is 720-938-7626. Jul 8, 2013
Kenan
  5.9
Kenan  
  5.9
I was surprised to see that this doesn't have more stars. The position is great, the movement interesting and varied, and it's one of those improbable lines that looks harder than it is. Holds appear right where you need them. Now one of my favorite 9s at Eldo. The scrambly start does detract a bit, but the upper part is so clean and aesthetic, I still give it 4 stars.

As far as difficulty, no way is this any harder than 5.9. Other Eldo 9+s are WAY harder (such as Hair City, P1 of Rincon, P1 of Pony Express, P1 of Tagger, etc). Just have faith that the holds (and gear) in the hand traverse are bomber and don't get stressed.... This climb can actually be quite restful.

Super fun! Jun 28, 2013
George Barnes
Westminster, CO
  5.9+
George Barnes   Westminster, CO
  5.9+
I didn't place anything bigger than a #0.75 C4. There's a place for a #3 and #2 on the 5.easy start just above the dead log.

Bring plenty of finger-sized cams. Nov 3, 2012
Chris Grosshans
  5.9+
Chris Grosshans  
  5.9+
I agree the pro is very good. This route sucks Aliens/Mastercams off your rack. You might want to bring two sets. Jul 9, 2011
Kevin P
Loveland
Kevin P   Loveland
There really is a finger crack after the flake/overhang. Can't see it from the ground. Grab the flake, lean back, and there it is. Nice route. Aug 3, 2010
D. Shaw
  5.10a PG13
D. Shaw  
  5.10a PG13
Once you know the moves, yes, 5.9. But for the on-sight leader, better to think 10a/9+, because it is hard to see the moves on the traverse. You have to feel your way across. Definitely worth doing, and by the way, the rap to the ground is no problem on a 65 meter rope. Jul 9, 2010
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
I agree with comment above that pro is good, and so I don't think leaders should be scared off by the description that this isn't a good climb to "press your limit" or whatever. If you bring a good selection of small cams in particular, you can double them up and most of climb would be easily aidable on bomber pieces, and few moves that are not (end of traverse) are just past bomber gear (I placed yellow Mastercam in horizontal crack after the "pod"). I always hesitate to weigh in as I'd feel bad if someone followed my comment and got hurt, but I wanted to share my opinion as Eldo only has a limited number of climbs at any given rating with really good pro, and this seems like such a 5.9 to me. Of course every leader is responsible for his/her own safety.
Also, this is 5.9 in Rossiter's guide: I wonder why so many feel need to use a + or -: 5.9 seemed fine.

Edit--led today (10/22/16) and still agree with my old comment, but add that i put in more small and medium nuts this time than I remember, so bring a good selection of those too if this is likely to be challenging climbing for you. Jun 29, 2009
Sarge
 
Sarge  
 
Superb route. Great anchors at the top. Jun 18, 2009
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
  5.9-
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
  5.9-
Maybe I am alone here, but I think that this is one of the better 5.9s in Eldo. Only the length (short) and the 40 ft of scrambling to the base take away from this climb. Much easier than P1 of C'est La Vie or Hair City. Nov 3, 2008
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
  5.9+
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
  5.9+
To clarify, there is a very nicely placed rap anchor on top of P1 of Peanuts. You can climb up to the anchor then lower off 100' to the ground. Close the system and have the belayer tie in or knot the end of the rope! Fun climb! Oct 24, 2008
patrick kadel
  5.9+
patrick kadel  
  5.9+
I did not read this site prior to climbing this today and looking up from the base I was not sure what holds there could possible be after the flake. I had more doubts than usual. Then, a short hand traverse put the biggest smile on my face. The vertical crack going to the anchors had some additional fun moves. It may be short and have an uninspiring start but this was a fun climb for me. I think not knowing of the hand traverse made it even sweeter, so don't read this. Aug 19, 2007
clint dillard
Louisville, Co
  5.9
clint dillard   Louisville, Co
  5.9
The route felt on the easy side of 5.9 to me and the pro is great. The crux is short and the finger crack at the end is really fun. There are some small foot holds that, if used, decrease the difficulty. Jul 3, 2005
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Can be led with a set of nuts and a couple sets of TCU's. If you wanted, you could place pro every 2-3 feet on the traverse. Don't let the above comments scare you off, give it a go. Jul 19, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
Fun route. Be sure to wedge your body behind the over-hanging flake and enjoy a perfect no-hands rest before you tackle the traverse. The final crack up to the anchor felt more difficult than the crux traverse; steep finger locks with insecure feet.

Be careful of loose rocks when pulling your rope if you rap. I pulled a few grapefruit sized rocks off and almost crushed a few friends. Sorry guys!

Also, Rossiter's guide suggests scrambling up to the ledge below the 5.7 climbing and belaying there. My partner belayed from the ground and it worked out fine. 100' to the anchor. May 23, 2003