Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: J. Erikson, H. Barber, 1973
Page Views: 9,561 total · 35/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

On the Northwest Face of Lower Peanuts Wall, locate a few dead trees leaning against the lower section. Just down and left from these is a left-leaning ramp that can be scrambled to a good ledge, some 70' from the ground. Move down and left on this ledge until a shallow, left-facing dihedral, which curls right to become a flake-roof. A crack about 10' right of there goes up to intersect the dihedral where it bends to the right to become the afore mentioned roof. This crack is the start of Peanuts.

From this position, a few bolted routes are visible. To the right you can see The Scared and the Profane (5.13) and Just Another Girl's Climb (5.12), some distance down and to the left, Blows Against the Empire (5.11) is visible.

Start up the crack, arching left to follow it to the intersection of the dihedral and roof. Place gear and step left across the overhang, going a few moves further left through underclings before getting gear again. This is the crux. Once a vertical crack is available, begin moving up again until a good ledge is reached.

Go up and right on the ledge to place gear or belay on bolts. Rap from the fixed station or finish on Forbidden Planet (5.10d, sport) Wired (5.9) or Dihedral (5.9-). There is a new fixed anchor at the top of the vertical crack, so there is no need go right across the ledge system to get down. It's 100 feet or a little less to the ground from the anchor.

Protection Suggest change

Nuts and cams to 2".

The crux pro is reasonable but not at your chest. As such, this route is safe but not a great route to press your level on.