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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: M. Brooks, 1981
Page Views: 89 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This short and somewhat grungy pitch looks unattractive, but has a few cool moves and a stumper crux. It is certainly no destination, but if you like doing committing thoughtful moves, it is worthy of the bother. The route generally is in the shade

I cleaned the route well in July of 2001, and it may remain clean for a while if it gets a little traffic.

Easy Off ascends the northern-most section of Lower Peanuts wall, going up the wall at some fixed slings (bolt and pin?). The original 5.9 grade is a sandbag and does not reflect the difficulty of the boulder problem required to get onto the first good holds of the route. This may range from 5.10a to 5.10d, depending on your height. At 5'11" it felt like 5.10c.

Climb up and left on a thin and insecure flake to reach a ledge, a short distance from the ground. These first few moves are hard and are not protected. The slab below might twist an ankle badly, so ask your belayer to spot you. Once on the small ledge, move left to it's edge, clipping the fixed pro and placing a piece if it makes you feel better.

From there, move up and then up and right to reach the slabs above and belay.

To descend, walk off left (northeast) for 30 seconds to reach the cliff base.

Protection

Despite apparently having had a bolt retro-added, this climb could still produce a fall resulting in some nasty trists or scrapes. You might not clip anything but fixed gear, but placing your own would be a good option to have, including to make a belay, so I have listed this route as trad.

Photos

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Umph!
  5.10c
Umph!  
  5.10c
Ooh balzy, I know what you mean now - that would be a nice bouldery, ankle-twisting start - will try it next time. Jul 31, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Same climb, but you started to the right of where I did. I came in more from below the fat flake/ledge. I guess I didn't realize at the time that there even was a first bolt over there that was supposed to be a part of the route and more or less bouldered up to the flake, which is why I only described the second bolt. The line was pretty natural the way I did it. Beginning was 5.10 not 5.0 though. Same end result from a different start. Jul 29, 2005
Umph!
  5.10c
Umph!  
  5.10c
Warning! BETA!
First, yes, it is height-dependent, However, I don't agree with most of the remaining description, unless, I am at a different climb that is certainly the MOST northeastern route on this lower wall. There are 2 bolts (older aluminum hangers)and one pin at the [mid-ledge]. Start up the 5.0 ramp (right-angling) to the first hanger, clip it and move left on thin hands but a reasonable foot (the only obvious foot down fairly low); match feet and move left to the edge of a small ledge, then bump up to a big, crisp hold (full-body hang on the left hand until the right matches). Then it's an easy up to the big ledge and the pin clip - mounting the big ledge is easy with a left sidepull. Now comes the face, and a fall could damage an ankle (due to the big ledge). Clip the hanger and pull some fairly crimpy edges/ledges, then repeat and you're up. Short but fun - and I agree, it's not a destination climb but worthy of a climb when at [Lower Peanuts]. I hope I didn't ruin [anyone's] climb with too much beta, but the description didn't seem to fit, and I'm still wondering. . . is this the same climb? Jul 28, 2005