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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Joseph Crotty
Page Views: 944 total, 22/month
Shared By: Joseph Crotty on Jun 7, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details


Climb out the stellar roof directly above The Shield. Steep climbing on mostly big clean holds leads to a few wild and innovative moves in a spectacular position. A great combination skills route for trad/sport teams - negotiate the excellent but heady .11b R ballet climbing on The Shield to gain the EV belay and then put on your sport face to secure the chains.

For those looking for an easier alternative approach pitch to EV, you can climb Peanuts or Blows Against the Empire and traverse left ~80' to reach the belay above The Shield.

From the belay atop The Shield, move left five feet and climb up two short angling cracks that converge. Place a good, blue #1 Metolius cam in the left crack high where it nearly converges with the right crack. Layback above the cam and rock onto the slab above finding a couple of good finger rails up high and right and clip a bolt. You can not see the bolt from the belay. Move right five feet and place a gold #2 Camalot which will take the edge off clipping the second bolt next to the "tooth". You can stand up to the right of the tooth and get a great no hands shake - enjoy it as it's your last until the chains. Move left past the tooth and latch a suit case block for clip three. Surf into the bottom left side of the "shark fin" for clip four. Get your psyche on for the crux. Hit clip five and cope with final RP moves. See the Protection section below for helpful specifics on what draw lengths to use.

Many heart felt thanks to Steven Lucarelli, Rob Woolf, Steve Annecone, Rob Kepley, Matt McKey, Travis David, and Greg Miller for their support.

Two failed ground-up attempts in 2008 and subsequent top down inspections made it clear it required bolts. This was bolted in the Fall of 2009.


On Lower Peanuts Evangelium Vitae is the roof above The Shield. Do The Shield P1 and belay on a 8x2 foot ledge.

Belaying/Rope Length
70m rope is best. Belay atop P1 The Shield. Several parties have reported that attempting EV from the ground using 80m rope results in tons of rope drag.

If you're at the belay atop P1 The Shield, you have several options to reach the ground:
  • Climb EV to the anchor. With a 80m rope you can rappel to the ground. With a 70m rope you can rappel to the ledge 40' above the ground and do a 5.6 down climb climber's left. With a 60m rope you can rappel to the anchor atop Young, Blond, and Easy (i.e., climber's left) then rappel again.
  • Climb EV and leave draws on bolts one and two and rappel with rope through draw two to the ledge 40' above the ground with 60m rope down climbing 5.6 terrain to climber's left.
  • Climb EV to the top and walk off.
  • Traverse 80' right to the anchor atop P1 Peanuts and rappel w/ 60m rope.
  • Leave the gear your belaying on and rappel to the ground.

It's a circus to TR this as it's too steep to get back on if you fall anywhere in the first three bolts. It is possible to pre-draw the bolts by hiking up the back side of Lower Peanuts climbing up the slab 100' finding a long large detached block along the ridge. The anchor is just over the edge.


For The Shield a SR with a set of DMM Brass nuts (i.e., two HB Brass Offset 3) and few technical finger-sized cams. Save two gold #2 Camalots for the belay.

Evangelium Vitae has five lead bolts and a two bolt anchor equipped with chains and carabiners. Bring a blue #1 Metolius Master Cam and a gold #2 Camalot. The rope will run optimally with the following placements:

1. Metolius Master Cam - blue #1 with quickdraw (gate left).
2. Bolt - shoulder runner and quickdraw (gate right) keeps rope running straight and clean when you're climbing higher.
3. BD Camalot - gold #2 with shoulder runner (gate right) takes the edge off the next clip.
4. Bolt - shoulder runner (gate right) makes your next burn a lot easier as you won't need the BD Camalot gold #2.
5. Bolt - shoulder runner (gate left) keeps the rope running straight.
6. Bolt - quickdraw (gate left).
7. Bolt - two quickdraws (gate right) keeps the rope running clean when you take the airy wobbler at the finish.


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Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
Thanks, Steve! Really appreciated your help on this one. Good point on alternative approach pitches. I added those to the description. Hopefully, it'll see some action soon and the grade can be confirmed. I am open to raising it if warranted, but I think with the correct beta it's .12b. Jun 8, 2014
Steve Annecone
Steve Annecone   boulder
Nice job, Joe, way to persist, stay focused, and get it done! You must have found some new beta if you think this is only 12b though! Or maybe you're doing some serious sandbagging!? By the way, for parties that don't want to do the Shield, it's easy enough to climb Blows Against the Empire or Peanuts and traverse left to the belay ledge. Jun 8, 2014
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
Stop reading if you're attempting an on sight.

A partial left kneebar/scum makes clipping the third bolt easier and affords a few good shakes. A kneepad makes it so you can almost get both hands off.

The crux toss between bolts four and five can be a bit perplexing until the right beta is applied. It is not height-dependent, rather beta intensive. 5'4" climbers send when wired. Above the "shark fin" at bolt four is a good mini-ledge you throw to. With left hand on the mini-ledge and right hand on a decent in cut crimper, match left foot to left hand heel hooking. Be careful the heel hook is along the edge, so you don't scrape up your Achilles. Fire left hand to a small side pull crimp overhead. Spy the slightly left-leaning dihedral overhead. Move left foot to a heel toe cam on the mini-ledge, and pull with arms pushing hard with left leg. Make the crux toss with left hand for the bottom of dihedral. Clip bolt five, suss out the red point crux which moves right onto the lip/arête feature and take the fun wobbler if you botch it.

Note, the "shark fin", some rock to its right and another lower feature in the roof sound hollow but are going nowhere. I crowbarred these extensively, and they are all bombproof. Jun 7, 2014