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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 95 ft Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Dale Goddard, 1987
Page Views: 3,324 total, 26/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jul 28, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The Sacred and the Profane is a sport climbing history lesson. It's hard to experience the slabby, old school style and sparse bolting on TSATP without being transported back to a time when lycra was king, and footwork, technique, and finesse were the rule.

To start TSATP, climb the start of Peanuts, and traverse 30 feet right along an easy ramp until you are below a small roof which is capped by a blunt arete. Clip the first bolt, make some easy moves over the roof, and then setup for the reachy, off-balance crux. Fight to establish on the right side of the arete and continue making bizarre, unstable moves until you reach a rest below the fourth and final bolt. After recovering, punch through the tweaky second crux, and push through 25 feet of easy (10a), but extremely runout terrain to the anchors.

It's worth noting that just past the fourth bolt, there is a minimally reinforced flake undercling. This hold is not foreign to the wall. A small amount of glue was put behind the hold to ensure that it wouldn't fall off- making the route a lot harder or impossible.

Since this route is all about footwork, and technique, it's really hard to rate. Older guidebooks suggest a 12d/13a rating. Newer guides have indicated a 13a/b rating. For this reason, I have given this route the vague rating of 13-. Impeccable footwork and technique might make this route feel like 12d. However, a lack of slab climbing experience could make this thing feel like 13b or harder.

In the end it doesn't matter. Simply let TSATP teach you something and allow yourself to be humbled by this amazing route.

Location

TSATP ascends a blunt, slabby arete about 30 feet to the right of Peanuts.

Protection

4 bolts, and a two bolt anchor. In addition to the fixed gear, the first 30 feet (the start of Peanuts) requires some fingers to hand-sized gear.

A toprope can be setup via many routes, but the easiest is Your Basic Lieback.

Also, to avoid the huge runout at the end, it's possible to dangle a long piece of rope with overhand knots containing quickdraws from the anchors. Some may consider this cheating. Others consider it smart.

Photos

JVM
JVM  
Thanks for ripping that off, you f'd up the route.... Aug 10, 2014
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The good undercling before the last 20 feet of hard climbing ripped off today. The route is still climbable, just a little harder. Sorry! May 20, 2012
kiff  
Damn, wish it was acceptable to hang static ropes laced with quickdraws off of everything.... May 19, 2012
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
Gear for the start, 4 spaced out bolts, R rating - yeah, I'd call that a sport route. Apr 19, 2012