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Areas in Peanuts Walls

Lower Peanuts 39 / 6 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 43
Upper Peanuts 10 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Elevation: 6,000 ft
GPS: 39.929, -105.287 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 44,342 total, 310/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

There are two smaller, distinct, north-facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls -Upper and Lower. Here you will find routes from 1-4 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. These crags have an advantage of shade in the summer heat and as a result Upper Peanuts Wall has some of the most striking lichens in all of Eldorado Canyon. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Star Wars, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts (opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Heavy Weather, 5.9; Forbidden Planet, 5.11a/b; Gravity's Angel, 5.11b; Sunrider, 5.11b; Just Another Girl's Climb, 5.12a/b S, and the runout Advanced Rockcraft, 5.12b VS.

Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.

Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts. If you are headed to Upper Peanuts, continue around up and to the right of Lower Peanuts Wall

The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.

56 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Peanuts Walls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Your Basic Lieback
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dihedral
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Crack (aka Star Wars)
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upstairs
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered, straight up variation
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heavy Weather
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanuts
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blows Against the Empire
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forbidden Planet
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gravity's Angel
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpions
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Young, Blonde, and Easy
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunrider
Sport, TR
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
The Sacred and the Profane
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Black Pearl
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Your Basic Lieback Lower Peanuts 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Dihedral Lower Peanuts 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
West Crack (aka Star Wars) Lower Peanuts 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Upstairs Upper Peanuts 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Cornered, straight up varia… Lower Peanuts 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Heavy Weather Upper Peanuts 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Peanuts Lower Peanuts 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Blows Against the Empire Lower Peanuts 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Forbidden Planet Lower Peanuts 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Gravity's Angel Upper Peanuts 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Scorpions Lower Peanuts 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Young, Blonde, and Easy Lower Peanuts 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Sunrider Upper Peanuts 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
The Sacred and the Profane Lower Peanuts 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R Sport
Black Pearl Lower Peanuts 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Peanuts Walls »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
slim    
Crying about a hold breaking at Eldo, that's some funny shit. Calling Taylor a turd? Not so funny.... Aug 11, 2014
JVM, what is with the anger? I have climbed a lot with Taylor, and I can assure you that he is not a turd. He is a nice guy and is a good steward to the climbing community. Holds break. Deal with it. Aug 10, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
JVM, idiot writing here...it means it's a crag probably best for non-beginners and non-high end climbers...which means I would recommend it for the mean +/- 2 SD part of the two tailed curve of climbers. Aug 10, 2014
JVM
JVM  
Ok well WTF does "No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult" mean? Because 5.6 is exceptionally easy and 5.13 is exceptionally difficult you idiot.....
Especially after some turd rips an undercling off. Aug 10, 2014

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