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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: J. Stuberg, solo, 1981
Page Views: 325 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 27, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

There is nothing really wrong with this climb but not much to recommend it either. The FA was done solo, which makes sense considering it is more like an easy boulder problem than an actual route. Just a few feet right of Fickle Finger of Eight, a thin crack leads up under a right-leaning, arching "crack" that becomes a horizontal slot. It arches right a few feet then ascends to a ledge. The horizontal section is the awkward crux and has a few loose bits of rock in that that can be easily enough avoided.

Location

This route starts a meter right of Fickle Finger and finishes a few meters right, at the same ledge.

Protection

A few small pieces and a large cam for the horizontal slot. Above the slot, one of several things could be placed - so a standard light rack has you covered.

Photos

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Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.8-
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.8-
Easily protected the whole way, especially if you bring a #4 Camalot or similar. Fun but short, crux at bottom. Aug 8, 2012