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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Mike Brooks, Chip Ruckgaber, 1980
Page Views: 805 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Another tick on Obscure Eldo route tour on Lower Peanuts. This is a neighbor of Star Wars, 1st pitch.

Find the ledge to the base of Star Wars. Loose, loose rock cover this ledge as you angle left and down to its start. Consider a belay to its base.

Find a crack system and move up on easier terrain. There is a loose wedged flake as you gain a long, horizontal edge that rattles as you bump it. Perhaps 30 feet up the big holds run out. You can move left to some side pulls that feels sketchy for 5.8. Or, you can face climb right on terrain that feels harder than 5.8. Clip the newly replaced bolt (Thanks, Steve & Bob!). Step up and get a decent hold. Here's that spot for that 0.33 Alien. Traverse right to the top of the 1st pitch of Star Wars.

You can TR this line with directional pro from the top of the first pitch of Star Wars.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack, 1 bolt, 0.33 Alien.

Photos

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Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
 
This route deserves the bomb. The loose flake and bushwacking under the tree brances tip you off that this climb isn't worth it. Step 10-20 feet right and do Star Wars instead. May 6, 2008
Kaz Hatfield
Firestone
  5.8+ PG13
Kaz Hatfield   Firestone
  5.8+ PG13
The beginning is so easy, then it gets so sketchy, so interesting, and then it's so over. My favorite part besides sending it was reaching around a corner to place the two smallest nuts in the thinnest crack and allowing those placements to boost my confidence just enough to turn the corner. It puts a smile on my face to look back on it and know I lived through that! Nov 13, 2017
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Steve, way to go! You da man! Jul 15, 2007
slevin  
The interesting line Leo mentions has been led. See "Do or Do Not". Jul 15, 2007
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Oh, yeah. I forgot to mention this. There is an interesting line between Star Track and Star Wars, 1st pitch. It starts up a crack that fades into thin face holds. Steeper than its neighbors. I wonder if anyone has done this previously? Jul 16, 2002