Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Mike Brooks, Chip Ruckgaber, 1980
Page Views: 897 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Another tick on Obscure Eldo route tour on Lower Peanuts. This is a neighbor of Star Wars, 1st pitch.

Find the ledge to the base of Star Wars. Loose, loose rock cover this ledge as you angle left and down to its start. Consider a belay to its base.

Find a crack system and move up on easier terrain. There is a loose wedged flake as you gain a long, horizontal edge that rattles as you bump it. Perhaps 30 feet up the big holds run out. You can move left to some side pulls that feels sketchy for 5.8. Or, you can face climb right on terrain that feels harder than 5.8. Clip the newly replaced bolt (Thanks, Steve & Bob!). Step up and get a decent hold. Here's that spot for that 0.33 Alien. Traverse right to the top of the 1st pitch of Star Wars.

You can TR this line with directional pro from the top of the first pitch of Star Wars.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack, 1 bolt, 0.33 Alien.

Photos

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Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.8
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.8
Oh, yeah. I forgot to mention this. There is an interesting line between Star Track and Star Wars, 1st pitch. It starts up a crack that fades into thin face holds. Steeper than its neighbors. I wonder if anyone has done this previously? Jul 16, 2002
slevin  
The interesting line Leo mentions has been led. See "Do or Do Not". Jul 15, 2007
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.8
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.8
Steve, way to go! You da man! Jul 15, 2007
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
 
This route deserves the bomb. The loose flake and bushwacking under the tree brances tip you off that this climb isn't worth it. Step 10-20 feet right and do Star Wars instead. May 6, 2008
Kaz Hatfield
Firestone
  5.8+ PG13
Kaz Hatfield   Firestone
  5.8+ PG13
The beginning is easy, then it gets sketchy and interesting, and then it's over. My favorite part besides sending it was reaching around a corner to place the two smallest nuts on our rack in one of the thinnest cracks and allowing those two placements to boost my confidence just enough to turn the corner. It puts a smile on my face to look back on it and know I lived through that! Nov 13, 2017