Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: FRA: Jim Erickson, Henry Barber, tandem solo, 1973, (solo P2 K. Donald, et al., 1977?)
Page Views: 22,349 total · 94/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


407 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is an EXCELLENT 2 pitch or one long pitch up the beautiful Lower Peanuts Wall. Scramble to the far right and up onto the first ledge (lots of loose talus...be careful). Find a large, obtuse corner just below a perfect handcrack in a steep left-facing dihedral (many obtuse corners so make sure you see the obvious handcrack above, some of these other corners have scary pro and are much harder).

P1. Climb the corner with variable crack and fingers at top to large loose ledge under beautiful hand crack (obvious), 5.7.

P2. Jam the hand crack for 40 feet and mantle (crux) onto small ledge, continue up V-slot with thin hands another 25 feet to small ledge....turn small roof into short V-slot that takes you to the summit. Belay on summit ridge and descend west until you can scramble down into gully between Lower and Upper Peanuts.

Protection

Take extra hand size cams in addition to standard rack. Aliens/TCUs helpful.... gear anchor(s).

History

From various sources, this is West Crack, noted in Pat Ament's 1975 High Over Boulder. The first recorded ascent was by Jim Erickson and Henry Barber done as a tandem free solo. In 1977, Kevin Donald and partners did the line, thinking it had not be done previously and named it for the famous move, Star Wars.

Photos