Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: R. & J. Rossiter, 1987
Page Views: 331 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


Approach this climb at lower section of the top of the Northwest face of Lower Peanuts wall by [following] the trail to the main West Arete of the wall. From there, scramble up a left-leaning ramp to a good ledge.

From the ledge, about 40' right of the start of [Star Wars], or 20' right of Double Cracks (and the large pine tree which obscures it) you will see a large left facing open-book with a flake on the right side. Climb & stem up the corner on thin holds and sometimes thin gear. (5.10d) This is the mental crux of the route, but it seemed safe. After this sustained section, you will reach a ledge to belay on.

From the belay, start up and left into left-facing flake which is followed (placing gear) to a ledge. From the rest on this ledge a bolt is visible up and right on the face. Climb past this bolt and up into a small roof (thin crux) to clip another bolt above. Pull through the roof and go up and left on the line of least resistance to a final short dihedral above overhang near the top (moderate). Go up this corner on good gear to the top (5.8).

Walk up and right (southwest) on the sumit ridge to the saddle between Upper and Lower Peanuts wall, then down the loose trail to return to the base.

This route was fun, but not as aesthetic as some of the other face climbs on peanuts, such as Sunrider or Forbidden Planet.


This is a mixed route, but gear is definitely required unless you solo 5.10d.

The first pitch gear is reasonable, but not always where you want it, and is sometimes a little tough to fish in. Once again, this is not a good place to push your limits.


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Shane Zentner
Shane Zentner   Colorado
I made the mistake of trying to climb directly above the flake to the bolt, which is a difficult series of moves with a sketchy cam placement in the flake. Apparently, as mentioned by Tony, the route goes left at the flake and then to the ledge. I obviously missed this and went straight for the bolt (bad idea). The flake is strong but I wouldn't trust it to hold a fall. Going for the bolt directly from the flake is sketchy as hell, so I climbed around it.

The first pitch is definitely doable, although as mentioned, I wouldn't push your limits here (I'm a 5.10 leader and this was a thinker). The gear is good, just be certain to be quick about placing it. Aliens, Aliens, Aliens, and a #3 BD stopper. Jun 19, 2006
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
You might be in trouble if you are under 6ft on P2. There is a reach to the first bolt and to the solution jug. After the crux, it is possible to head right instead of left. It looked more secure and had less lichen. Jun 20, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Wew went up and did this again on Sunday. I was able to protect the first pitch with small stoppers, and RP's. The large flake just before the 1st pitch crux is now loose, and will change the beta when it cuts loose. Still a nice route. 2nd pitch did not seem as tough as it was 15-years ago... Jul 22, 2009
Rob DeZonia  
I didn't realize this was two pitches. We always just do it in one pitch with the use of some runners. My brother is a little fella, about 5'8" with shoes on, and never had an issue with the crux. It's just a more committing move for the wee person, but you're on top rope because of a well placed bolt. This is a nice technical climb. I brought a strong gym climber here once and it was like V4 for him. Sep 6, 2011
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Clipping the bolt is scary going straight off the flake.... I don't really understand where people usually go on this. Jul 9, 2014
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Overall, good route with two 10+ to 11- cruxes and some questionable rock that should be treated with care. Red or yellow ballnuts or small nuts may be helpful on the first pitch. One can stand on the questionably attached flake with questionably solid gear placed behind it and tiptoe over to the bolt on fingertip underclings. Aug 31, 2015
Jeff Buhl
Jeff Buhl  
The two protection bolts on Home Free were updated to half-inch stainless steel bolts. Many thanks to ACE, Eldorado State Park and to Bruce Hildenbrand for the support and the help. A picture of what came out of the rock shown below:

Aug 13, 2016