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Routes in Lower Peanuts

Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Criller T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Faith, Hope and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good Mourning T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Nova T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Star Track T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strata Outta Compton T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
X-Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Brooks and Andrea Azoff, 1986. FFA: Ken Black
Page Views: 1,065 total, 9/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on May 28, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route has some tragic history as written in Rossiter's guidebook, but don't let that steer you away. The crux pitch is excellent with thin technical moves that keep you thinking and searching for the correct sequence.

The first pitch is pretty contrived and hard to locate as it appears to climb a blank slab with no gear or major features? Another option is to climb an easy flake to the left and follow the ramp right to the start of the second pitch. There is really no reason to stop and belay on the ramp since your only about 30' or 40' above the ground at that point.

The second pitch follows a thin flake with a pin and then breaks right to a bolt. Getting to the bolt is a bit spicy, but the bolt is bomber. Continue up a thin crack with another fixed pin and into a broken-up section of rock and belay on a ledge. The book says there's an anchor at the end of this pitch, but we never saw one.

There is no description for the last pitch in the book, since the route write-up states that it was never completed. But we traversed right on a lichen covered ledge and climbed straight up a dihedral to the top. This pitch was sketchy with lots of lichen and loose rock and difficult to find gear placements. Probably would weigh in at 10- PG13.

Location

This route is located to the right of "Young, Blond and Easy" just right of some large trees that are near the base of the wall.

Protection

Mostly small cams and RPs and maybe one large cam (#3.5 Camalot) for the last pitch. Fixed pins and one bolt.

Photos

Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.11b PG13
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.11b PG13
After the crack tapers into a left-facing corner in a sloping dish feature and the climbing eases way up climb up another 10' feet and set a bely on a nice ledge that is a bit jagged in spots. Save a gold and red Camalot for the belay. Pitch two is fairly dirty and probably gets done once every five years or so. I was scared considering this was only 5.9 climbing. I wonder where Kenny took the plunge from? Jul 24, 2008
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
Interesting to see this here; of course after Kenny died the route got the name Psycho Killer due to Kens' seriously unstable personality. The story continued to get interesting after the accident; I won't risk being disrespectful in this post, suffice it to say perhaps there is such as thing as karma or destiny. Jun 19, 2008