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Routes in Upper Peanuts

Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

There are two smaller, North-facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls -Upper and Lower. This division covers the Upper Peanuts Wall for organizational purposes. Here you will find routes from 1-4 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. This crag has an advantage of shade in the summer heat and, as a result, has some of the most striking lichens (see photo to the right) in all of Eldorado Canyon. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Heavy Weather, 5.9; The Cruise, 5.9; Gravity's Angel, 5.11b; Sunrider, 5.11b; and the runout Advanced Rockcraft, 5.12b vs.

Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Helmets may be advisable.

Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts. Continue around to the right and upwards to Upper Peanuts Wall.

The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Peanuts

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
Kevin -
Even if a majority of climbers were to think that this rappel is unnecessary, there is a critical difference between this rap application and, say, an application for a bolt on a new route: the park rangers think that the erosion is unsustainable and they asked for a rap route to manage it. That carries weight. Nov 16, 2013
kevin murphy
Lafayette, Colorado
kevin murphy   Lafayette, Colorado
Greggers, rap route is a bad idea. Walk is just fine. Hasn't changed in over ten years. I could see marking the walk off better. Sep 3, 2013
Tommy Ormond
Eldorado Springs, CO
Tommy Ormond   Eldorado Springs, CO
Concerning the proposed rappel stations above Heavy Weather (fixed lines installed Aug. 2013): Wow is that fixed line in bad shape. 4 bites in the rope that were bad enough I had to feed them through the ATC while whimpering quietly to myself.

I think that these rappel stations are really unnecessary. The hike off the back side is not that bad, erosion is an issue, but people rapping a 300 ft line down a chossy part of the cliff causes erosion as well. Additionally, I bet that pulling a double rope rappel right there will result in stuck ropes.

Just not a good rappel, in my opinion. Maybe there are other motivations to have a set of bolted anchors for rapping off Upper Peanuts. Sep 3, 2013
Umm, help. Upper Peanuts Wall will soon be closed. Permanently.

It is owned by Boulder City. Under the proposed new OSMP Visitor Plan, a number of local crags will be shut down forever. Mickey Mouse is the largest. Others include Continental Crag (up above Peanuts), Upper Peanuts Wall, The Sacred Cliffs.

Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks have presented this proposal to Boulder City Council. Boulder City Council will discuss this on Tuesday 14th December.

Please phone or email the Boulder City Council Members (who love to hear from people about issues like this) that this is unacceptable.

Show up this Tuesday, Dec 14th at 6:00pm at Council Chambers (Broadway and Canyon). Bring a friend, or two, or eight. Let's pack the room.

More details are at:

keep-open-space-open.org/

Details of the folks who will decide on this issue are at:

ci.boulder.co.us/cmo/cityco…

They are:

Robin Bohannan 303-524-9067 11/18/03 11/072814 15th Street; 80304 720-938-5215bohannanr@ci.boulder.co.usbohannan@indra.comThomas Eldridge 303-449-8419 303-443-3336 02/18/97 11/051301 Canyon Blvd. #406; 80302 303-443-3336 (fax)eldridget@ci.boulder.co.usCrystal Gray 303-449-9680 11/18/03 11/071709 Spruce Street; 80302grayc@ci.boulder.co.uscrystal_boulder@hotmail.comShaun McGrath 720-304-2165 11/18/03 11/05225 29th Street; 80305mcgraths@ci.boulder.co.uss.l.mcgrath@att.netGordon Riggle 303-530-7181 11/18/97 11/055225 Pinehurst Dr.; 80301riggleg@ci.boulder.co.usMark Ruzzin 303-417-9798 11/20/01 11/073135 5th St.; 80304ruzzinm@ci.boulder.co.usmruzin@swenergy.orgAndy Schultheiss 303-440-3321 11/18/03 11/053370 25th Street; 80304schultheissa@ci.boulder.co.usJack Stoakes 303-449-3374 303-449-3374 11/18/03 11/072727 Folsom St., #110; 80304stoakesj@ci.boulder.co.usWilliam R. Toor 303-544-0104 11/18/97 11/053032 10th St.; 80304toorw@ci.boulder.co.us Email, phone or write. Do all three. Dec 12, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Anonymous Coward writes: "Ron, then why did they lower the entrance fee to $5, from $6. Last time I was up there we gave the ranger $6 and he gave us a buck back and said they'd lowered the fee. Not that I want to pay high fees, but I'm curious given your comments."

The daily vehicle fee in Eldorado is $6 May 1 through Labor Day, and $5 the rest of the year. Most state parks have a $5 fee year round; only Eldorado, Boyd Lake, Chatfield, and Cherry Creek raise the fee to $6 for the summer season. See parks.state.co.us/old_root_… for a complete list of state parks and daily vehicle fees. Sep 25, 2003
Ron, then why did they lower the entrance fee to $5, from $6. Last time I was up there we gave the ranger $6 and he gave us a buck back and said they'd lowered the fee. Not that I want to pay high fees, but I'm curious given your comments. Sep 25, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
The trail work on Peanuts Wall appears to be finished, at least for this year. The constructed trail starts at the top of the talus field by the center of the lower wall, and heads up the right side to the start of Star Wars. Above that, the old loose climber's path continues up to the descent gully.

The park needs more money for trail work. There were significant cuts in state funding this year, which limited what could be done.This spring, the Action Committee for Eldorado contributed $8000 to Eldorado for trail work. Most of the money ACE contributes is raised by the annual Celebrate Eldorado event; this year's eventwas held a few weeks ago.

If you didn't participate in Celebrate Eldorado (and even if you did), you can help improve Eldorado trails by sending a contribution to:

Action Committee for EldoradoPO Box 337Eldorado Springs, CO 80025

See the ACE website, aceeldo.org, for more information about ACE and its activites.

Thanks,

Ron OlsenAction Committee for Eldorado

Sep 25, 2003
Alex B  
Sounds like a crew is on top of it, but I would think that with the amount of cash the park gets from entrance fees that a trail would have been made a while ago. The errosion in the area is out of control. Try and stay on the talus. Sep 24, 2003
For better or worse (depending upon your perspective), the Trail Crew is active along the base of Lower Peanuts right now and progressing upwards. They are working about the level of Home Free right now. They're doing a great job - if you like 'enhanced' approached trails. If you want to take advantage of their work, take the Fowler Trail to the big talus slope as usual and aim for the low point of Lower Peanuts where the 'new version' of the trail begins. Jun 30, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Peanuts is one of the few areas in Eldo that is always not in the sun. It can be unpleasant to climb there in the winter due to the snow and ice that collects on the North Faces, although some of the routes face more Westwardly, and are nice in the mid-afternoon. This same condition makes Peanuts a hot summer morning destination. Although the best rotues are both high quality and easy to find and access, others are difficult to find, or are not well described. One particular Route, Cardinal Richeleau (5.8+, _) is an unpleanant death route, at best. Aug 1, 2001

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