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Upper Peanuts Rock Climbing
Routes in Upper Peanuts
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Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 6,394 ft | 1,949 m |
| GPS: |
39.92857, -105.28676 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 32,141 total · 110/month | |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2000 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: Permit to access - required?
Details
Per Tony B: according to this recently published map from OSMP, Upper Peanuts Wall is now in an HCA and requires a permit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Description
There are two smaller, North-facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls -Upper and Lower. This division covers the Upper Peanuts Wall for organizational purposes. Here you will find routes from 1-4 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. This crag has an advantage of shade in the summer heat and, as a result, has some of the most striking lichens (see photo to the right) in all of Eldorado Canyon. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.
While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Heavy Weather, 5.9; The Cruise, 5.9; Gravity's Angel, 5.11b; Sunrider, 5.11b; and the runout Advanced Rockcraft, 5.12b vs.
Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Helmets may be advisable.
Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.
Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.
While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Heavy Weather, 5.9; The Cruise, 5.9; Gravity's Angel, 5.11b; Sunrider, 5.11b; and the runout Advanced Rockcraft, 5.12b vs.
Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Helmets may be advisable.
Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.
Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.
Getting There
There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts. Continue around to the right and upwards to Upper Peanuts Wall.
The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.
The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.
Rappels off
The Park rangers requested a rappel route off to reduce what they determined was unsustainable erosion with the walk off. This lies above Heavy Weather.
Rappel #1:
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Rappel #2 (30m):
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Rappel #3 :
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Rappel #1:
Rappel #2 (30m):
Rappel #3 :
Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Peanuts
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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