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Routes in Upper Peanuts

Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Johnson and Archer, 1987
Page Views: 1,773 total, 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Feb 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Directly below Sunrider and behind the trees are two good starting pitches separated by a large flake that has been augered into the ground. The left is Gravity's Angel, a clip-up with an optional cam placement at 20 feet. Follow a clean, vertical face to a small roof that is dodged on it's right. Belay at the tree. The tree serves as the pivot point to launch an approach to Sunrider via the crux pitch of Heavy Weather on the left or low fifth class on the right. It also can be used to hang the draws on Advanced Rockcraft. Clean stone, crisp edges, and a nice vertical face. Save it for a warm day since it does not get great sun.

Protection

Bring a #1 or #2 size Camalot, half a dozen draws, and a rope.

Photos

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Spud  
I don't know what I was missing, and maybe I'm just way outta shape, but this thing was chockful of scary cruxing! The first-second bolt area is a dangerous fall, although not that hard. Getting to the third is a far, hard traverse with a big, swingy fall potential, and the 4th to 5th bolt was WAY scary for me! Great fun movement when you didn't think you were about to die! Aug 17, 2015
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
I'll add some beta since no one has commented for a while....

I found this climb to be fantastic! Certainly better than the neighboring "Home Free". I was able to get some solid gear between the 1st and 2nd bolt by climbing up and left from the 1st bolt and into some licheny rock where I got a purple Mastercam and red c3 (both had long slings on them). It seemed a bit contrived, but it was better than going straight up to the 2nd bolt and risking a serious groundfall, especially because some of the rock just below the 2nd bolt is suspect. After the 2nd bolt it was a great, technical, footwork intensive climb! Apr 21, 2014
Rob DeZonia  
 
Great route! All cruxes are well protected. The rock is amazing. An Eldo classic. A good place to spend on a hot summer morning. I don't remember it being spicy, but I've only lead it a few times and we were using it for a warm up. Sep 6, 2011
In regards to Stefan's comments on the rebolting of this route: In reading his description, it appears that some non-stainless hardware (3" x 3/8" Rawl 5-piece bolts are plated and not stainless) was used. I hope I am mistaken, but if not, there are several organizations which promote rebolting (ASCA, ARI, etc.) which provide stainless hardware free of charge. It doesn't make sense to me in light of all the time and trouble to do rebolting to use non-stainless hardware.

Also, if I am not mistaken, don't the rebolting guidelines for Eldorado State Park require that stainless hardware be used? May 27, 2010
Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
  5.11 R
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
  5.11 R
All of the bolts on Gravity's Angel have now been upgraded to either 5-piece Rawl 3/8" x 3" or Fixe stainless. Thanks to ACE (Action Committee for Eldorado) for the tools and hardware. May 27, 2010
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11b PG13
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11b PG13
Very cool face climbing with 2 cruxy sections. I got a pretty good small stopper and a red C3 before the second bolt to help ease the ground fall potential. Oct 18, 2009
A great pitch, but it sure could use an upgrade regarding the fixed protection. I also don't think that there is any good gear between the first and second bolt; the rock quality is questionable for all of the small options and the old #2 cam slot is definitely broken and no longer useful. I'm wondering if something else broke since it seems to be a lot harder than I remember passing the second bolt? Sep 3, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
This route, Forbidden Planet, and Blows against the Empire make for a great bunch of 5.11 climbing that are easy to get to, well protected, and high quality. We climbed this one Sunday, and I did not see any rust on the bolts, however; the lichen this year does seem abundant. I would recommend that subsequent parties bring a brush. Jul 22, 2009
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
There didn't appear to be any gear between the 1st and 2nd bolt... tread carefully as you could hit the deck before clipping #2. Otherwise, brilliant slab climbing. Nov 3, 2008
Steve Annecone
boulder
 
Steve Annecone   boulder
 
What an excellent and sustained route, one of the best on Peanuts in my opinion! A Black Alien and/or small offset Aliens can be used to protect the runout between the 1st and 2nd bolt, and it would be a 5.9 s or vs section without gear there. After the 2nd bolt, no more gear is needed but draws, and there are some rather spicy but safe runouts between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and after the 5th bolt. Lots of fun, thin, and footy climbing throughout! May 29, 2005
This is truly a great route - although there are many to choose from it stands out as solid for the grade and aesthics of the movement. There are several distint cruxes that require solid foot, hand, body, and head work...and not too much chalk to show the possiblitiles. Awesome!

I see that these bolts are ~16-17 years old and are looking fairly rusted. Realizing that the are 3/8" and that this may sound silly - Does anyone have any idea if they are still relatively safe? or the expected life on them? Jul 26, 2003
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
I don't think the danger from the Heavy Weather death blocks applies.... the fall line for those blocks is well to the left of this route. Jul 22, 2003
There's a DANGER: LOOSE BLOCKS warning on "Heavy Weather" that probably applies to this climb as well. May want to check it out... Jun 22, 2003
Your welcome Leo, ...most appreciation to Erik J. who had the vision.--aa Aug 28, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
The book beta says that a 2" cam can be placed between the first and second bolts. No Longer True. There is no placement there, but there is plenty of broken rock as of ??? I was there on Saturday, 6/14/02 and the rock was on the ground. I hope that nobody was injured.

As an end result, the climb is actually slightly easier in that spot and does not require a placement. Even most 5.10 leaders will feel comfortable getting to the second bolt, but if you are not a 5.11 leader , you probably don't want to be on lead on this anyway...No real bad fall potential, but you could skin yourself up pretty badly.

I am 5'10" and felt that the right-hand traverse around the 2nd-3rd clip was somewhat reachy, but more for the feet than hands. The crux upper part between Bolts 4-5 is quite thin and can be solved different ways, with or without crosses.

From the 5th bolt to the top is some distance, but is safe if going left and will feel like easy buckets. It is pretty safe overall. Jun 16, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
This is an awesome pitch, but it doesn't feel like a BC or CC clip-up. Pretty sustained steep slab climbing with healthy runs between the bolts for a 5.11b leader. Thin moves right off the deck. #1 1/2 F & wire useful before the 1st bolt. The R traverse high above the 2nd bolt feels out there with little for the hands -_ long reach/lean R. After the 3rd bolt there is balancey footwork with 2 foot crosses. Move L after the 5th bolt. Another diamond in the rough! Great vision. Thanks [Andy] and Eric. Apr 1, 2002