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Routes in Upper Peanuts
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Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Linda Willing, R. Rossiter, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 890 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 15, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: Permit to access - required?
Details
Per Tony B: according to this recently published map from OSMP, Upper Peanuts Wall is now in an HCA and requires a permit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Description
This is yet another obscure Eldo route that can be used as an alternate start to Heavy Weather.
Trek up the boulder field to Upper Peanuts Wall. Find the start of Heavy Weather, look 15 feet right.
Find a small dihedral with a squeeze chimney above. Delicately, move up the dihedral on reasonable edges, lightly sprinkled with lichen, on the left wall. Slot lots of smaller wires. Gain a ledge. A long reach to a good left hold, another good left hold, a left pinch, and then you are left to contemplate the squeeze chimney. A #4 camalot fits nicely in its base. Follow this with a look right and find glorious bucket holds that permit virtual climb of the squeeze without the reality abrasions. Move up through fractured rock to the top of a block. Either move up and right a short crack to a large tree or loop the top of the block (to keep down the drag) and downclimb to the tree (with 3 slings and rings, 100ft off the deck) at the top of Gravity's Angel/Heavy Weather's 1st pitch.
Trek up the boulder field to Upper Peanuts Wall. Find the start of Heavy Weather, look 15 feet right.
Find a small dihedral with a squeeze chimney above. Delicately, move up the dihedral on reasonable edges, lightly sprinkled with lichen, on the left wall. Slot lots of smaller wires. Gain a ledge. A long reach to a good left hold, another good left hold, a left pinch, and then you are left to contemplate the squeeze chimney. A #4 camalot fits nicely in its base. Follow this with a look right and find glorious bucket holds that permit virtual climb of the squeeze without the reality abrasions. Move up through fractured rock to the top of a block. Either move up and right a short crack to a large tree or loop the top of the block (to keep down the drag) and downclimb to the tree (with 3 slings and rings, 100ft off the deck) at the top of Gravity's Angel/Heavy Weather's 1st pitch.
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